The Physical Properties and Dyeability of KOH Treated Cotton Fabrics

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(1)~~Öë²æ *7² *1^, 2005 _\¢^a. J. Kor. Soc. Cloth. Ind. Vol. 7, No. 1, pp.91-95(2005). KOH ¾Ò ç>~ >9 # ï9. Ç*ÁB>ÁÇzB ?«¶&v ~~". The Physical Properties and Dyeability of KOH Treated Cotton Fabrics Hyun-Joo Song, Su-Mi Kim and Wha-Soon Song Dept. of clothing & Textiles, Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul, Korea. 7KH SXUSRVH RI WKLV VWXG\ LV WR LQYHVWLJDWH WKH LPSURYHPHQW RI ILEHU VXUIDFH SK\VLFDO SURSHUWLHV DQG UHVHDUFK. WKH SK\VLFDO SURSHUWLHV DQG G\HDELOLW\ RI FRWWRQ IDEULFV WUHDWHG ZLWK .2+ VROXWLRQ DW ORZ DQG4 KLJK WHPSHUDWXUH 7KH WUHDW PHQW FRQGLWLRQV IRU PHUFHUL]DWLRQ ZLWK .2+ ZHUH FKDQJHG YDULRXV WHPSHUDWXUHV &

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(6) b &V~ ;Wf ^çN ê 5 Å>ö 'Ëj Aæ pº ~& . ¢>'b ^Bz &ö ÒÏ>º r¢ÒBº 8 > Öz¾Þ " ÒÏ> ®b, "öê ^Bz Î"¢ ¸ V * · wÏVF BB> ® (;" , 2000). 8¢B öBº r¢Ò ¾ÒB KOH¢ ÒÏ~, ç>~ >W 5 "ïWj ËçÊ¶ ~& . ö ç>~ Ë;ê, ;ê, >», ;W, >ªN >Wj ¦Æ~ 'j J; ê, r¢Ò ¾Ò *Áê ç>~ ; æz¢ &V~& . $ ' öB KOH ¾ÒB ç> Â"òf W"ò "ï , "ïWö ~º 'Ë j ¦Æ~& .. 4Fº ;ê, WÛ9, Ú9

(7) &æ ö* Ö> >9j <¾ Ö Ï' 4F¾ 7, ;n;9 Ö Ö6j < ® . ¢ j~V * R 1844j Jone Mercer& ^*z¢ *Ò ê, 1889j Lower. Hº ^*z ö ~ 7 Ã& º ©j *Ò~&b, 1985j Thomasf Proevost& ^*z &j ë'bR 9* æ .ö . ^*z &~ öÒº BRJÊ ª¶& r¢Ò fJ Ê æ~B RF ª¶*~ ;K >²Ö ^, R F ª¶ Ò >Öz¾Þ Ï¾ > jv' £² R~ RF& cJ>º ©j Ï ©b, ~>n;z, " ïW Ëç, WÛW Ã&, ;K Ëç ~ WËj ¦ > ® b, ËK ~öB ^Bz ãÖ Ò" ?f 7j B*. (Zeronian, 1990).. ^Bz &ö & F¯ Saafan(1984)º f Ö;W ¸jB z>wW 'f Þæò ^Bz ²>W ¢¦ Ö;' jÖ; 'b æ~, &æ >W" £®>wW ËçB ~&b, ÇzB (1995)º . 2.. þ. 5 £ òò : "ïÒÖê þÏ Î¦ W(KS K 0905)¢ ;N êÒÏ~&. . ò~ ßWf r" ? . £ : r¢Ò ¾Òöº KOH(Duksan Pure Chemical Co., Ltd)¢ ÒÏ~&b, r¢Ò ¾Ò ê 7zº H SO (Duksan 2.1.. Corresponding author; Hyun-Joo Song Tel. +82-2-710-9462, Fax. +82-2-710-9462 E-mail: [email protected]. 2. 91. 4.

(8) ~~Öë²æ *7² *1^, 2005j. 92. Table 1. Characteristics of fabric. Fabric. Weave. Cotton. Plain. Yarn number ('s) Warp 30. Fabric counts(thread/ 5cm). Weft 36. j ÒÏ~& . Â"ïf "Ò ~¶(Ö)¢ ÒÏ~&, z"ïf Direct Sky Blue 5B(C.I Direct Blue 15)¢ ÒÏ~& . j" Bº Na CO (Duksan Pure Chemical Co., Ltd)f /"Bº Na SO (Duksan Pure Chemical Co., Ltd)j ÒÏ~&b, ² wf KS M 2704ö & ^ç&j*¢ ÒÏ~& . ç~ £f Îv 6 1/®j ÒÏ~& .. Warp 141. Weft 135. 2. Weight(g/m ) 100. Û5. Pure Chemical Co., Ltd). 2. 2. 3. 4. H¢Ò þO» ¾Ò : r¢Ò ¾Òº ç>ö KOH~ ³ê(15%, 20%, 25%, 30%. w/v)f Nê(&N 25 C, N 90 C)5 * (30, 60, 180, 300sec)j æz* ¾Ò~& . ¾Ò ç>f >^~ 1% Ö>Ïb 10ª* 7z Î>9ê, N>^Áï>^¢ >~ ¶ ~& . : Ë;ê − r¢Ò ³ê, ¾ÒNê 5 * æzö 8 Ë;êº Ë;ê þV (SS-121A, SUNGSIN)¢ Ò Ï~ KS K 0520ö &~ ãÒOËö & 5² G;~ ï8j ~& . G;f r" ? .. Fig. 1. Dyeing methods of natural dye.. 2.2.. o. o. Speed : 100 mm/min Full Scale : 200 kg. ;ê − r¢Ò ³ê, ¾ÒNê 5 * æzö 8 ;êº ;ê þV(ASA-217, ASIA TESTING MACHINE)¢ ÒÏ~ KS K 0535ö &~ ãÒOËb & 5² G;~ ï8j ~& . >» − r¢Ò ³ê, ¾ÒNê 5 * æzö 8 >» f r ö ~B ~& . L 1 – L2 - × 100 shrinkage ( % ) = ---------------L1 L1 : L2 :. & * ò^ & ê ò^. ;W − r¢Ò ³ê, ¾ÒNê 5 * æzö 8 ; Wf ;W þV(HS048A, HANWON TESTING MACHINE) ¢ ÒÏ~ KS K 0539ö & º.ª»b ãÒOËö & 5² G;~ ï8j ~& . >ªN − r¢Ò ³ê, ¾ÒNê 5 * æzö 8 >ª Nf KS K 0220ö &~ rö ~B ~& . W2 – W1 moisture regain ( % ) = --------------------× 100 W1. Fig. 2. Dyeing methods of direct dye.. ò~ Z² W : WÛ ò~ Z² ö ~R R;8 : ¾Ò ç> KOH ¾Ò SEM ç>~ ; æzº "Ò*¶*ã(Scanning Electro Microscope JSM-820, JOEL, JAPAN)j ÒÏ~ jLÁV ~&. ï. : Â"ò "ï - ~¶¦8 ï² ºÂf F¯\ (ß, ÇzB, B÷\, 1998)ö 8¢ ~¶ 20gj ªê~, Ã~> 1 l¢ 3² ¾*Ú 90 CöB 1*O >~ ï²¢ ºÂ ê, ÒÏ~& . "ïf ºÂB "j j 1:20b ~ ¶ÿ"ï8 (ASA-417, ASIA TESTING MACHINE)¢ ÒÏ~ Fig. 1 ?f O»b "ï~& . W"ò "ï - ç7"ò 0.5%(o.w.f)~ "(j 1:60)b Fig. 2f ?f O»b "ï ê, 2%(w/v) ^B 80 Cö B 10ª* ²w~&. "O³ê (K/S) G; - ¾Ò 5 KOH ¾Ò ç>~ K/S 8f C.C.M (Computer Color Matching System, JX777, JAPAN)j ÒÏ~, ' ò~ >ÒNj Y filter G; ê, Kubelka-Munkö ~~ ÖÂ~& . W1: 2. o. o. (1 – R) K ⁄ S = -------------------2R. 2.

(9) KOH. W% ê> Ö¦ ê> R : >Ò K : S :. 3.. Ö # 8. ¾Òö 8 ç>~ ;ê Fig. 3 Fig. 4º KOH ³ê, ¾ÒNê 5 * æzö 8 ç>~ Ë;êf ;ê¢ ¾æÞ Ö . Fig. 3 Fig. 4ö ¾æÂ :f ? KOH ¾Ò ç>~ Ë;êf ;êº ¾Ò Ã&~& . º ç> ^Bz>B RF~ Ö;'f 6²~æò, cJö ~ 3.1. KOH. ¾Ò ç>~ >9 # ï9. 93. 4ª ¦âb ~ RF» OËb Ö;~ VËW Ã& ~, ^RF~ >»ö ~ ª¶* >²Ö~ >¢ Ã& * RF~ ;Kj Ã&Ê8 H^b 'B . Þ Ë;ê~ ãÖ &N¾Ò , N ;ê& Ã& B ©b ¾æÒ . N~ ãÖ KOH 15, 20% ³ê 60. Ú ¾Ò ;êæz& ~ ìî . º NaOH¾Ò r ¢Ò >zb~ 8& ·j¢ RF Ú¦~ Ö;\Hæ r ¢Ò >zb 4>Ú Ö;\ö 'Ëj º (s *j , 1986)f ¢~~º ©b, ¾Ò * b RF Ú¦ræ >z>~ 4& £² Úææ pj ;ê& Ã& ~æ pº ©b 'B . Þ Ë;ê 5 ;ê Îv N &N¾Ò Ã&~& . º Lewin(1983)~ f ?f ãËb, RF~ Ö;\ ³b 4~º r¢Ò >z >~ ·f Nê& Ôj> Ã&~ RF~ cJ Ã&~² >æ &N¾Ò ;ê& Ã& ©b 'B . ¾Òö 8 ç>~ >» Fig. 5º KOH ³ê, ¾ÒNê 5 * æzö 8 çb ~ >» Ö . Fig. 5ö ¾æÂ :f ? KOH ³ê 5 *ö 8 >»f KOH ³ê 5 * Ã&> ² ¾æÒ . º KOH ³ê 5 * Ã&> r¢Òö ~ RF~ cJ Ã&>îV H^ . $ KOH ¾Ò N êö 8 >»f &N¾Ò N >» Ã&~&. . º s*j (1986)~ öB NaOH ¾Ò ¾ÒN ê& Ôj> >» ææ © ?f ãËb, ¾ÒNê& Ôj> RF~ Ö;\ ³b 4~º >zb~ · Ã &>Ú cJ~ ;ê& Ã&>V H^¢ 'B . 3.2. KOH. Fig. 3. Tencile strenght of cotton fabrics by varying conc. of KOH, treated temp. and time.. Fig. 4. Tearing strength of cotton fabrics by varying conc. of KOH, treated temp. and time.. Fig. 5. Shrinkage of cotton fabrics by varying conc. of KOH, treated temp. and time..

(10) 94. ~~Öë²æ *7² *1^, 2005j. ¾Òö 8 ç>~ ;9 f KOH³ê, ¾ÒNê 5 * æzö 8 çb~ ;Wj ¾æÞ Ö . Fig. 6ö ¾æÂ :f ? ;êº N¾Ò &N ¾Ò Ã&~& . º &N¾Ò r¢Ò >zb~ 4 & £² Ú^ ª¶ê~ VËê& Ã&~ rV H ^ . &N¾Ò KOH ³ê 20%öB &Ë ~ ~î Î¢ ¦ > ®î . 20% ç ³ê& Ã&~² >. Fæº ©j r > ® . N¾Ò öº 25%¢ H &Ë ¸f ;Wj , 30% ³ê¢ Ã&Ê J®J ¾Ò z Fr . º KOH ³ê 5 ¾Ò* Ã&ö 8¢ &N¾Ò KOH ³ê 15%f N¾Ò KOH ³ê 20%ræº r¢Ò >zb RF Ú¦ræ 4> æ á~ Ö;zêö ~º 'Ë 'b¾, &N¾Ò KOH ³ê 25% ç N¾Ò KOH ³ê 30%öBº RF~ Ú¦ræ r¢Ò >zb~ 4& £² Ú^ RF ~ Ö;' jÖ; 'b æz~ RF~ \& F ~² æ~V H^ö ;ê& 6²>º ©¢ 'B .. ç~ Ö¢ «~ çbö KOH ¾Ò >»;êº ²z~ Ë;ê, ;ê, ;W, >ªN j ËçÒ > ®º ' f r ? . &N¾Ò KOH ³ê 20%, ¾Ò* 180., N¾Ò º KOH ³ê 25%, ¾Ò* 60.& :²ç~ .. ¾Òö 8 ç>~ >ªN f KOH ³ê, ¾ÒNê 5 *ö 8 çb~ > ªNj ¾æÞ Ö . KOH ¾Ò , >ªNf &N NöB Îv ¾Ò. Ö>~² ¾æÒ . ß®, &N¾Ò N >ªN ¸ ² ¾æÒb, KOH ³êf ¾Ò* Ã&ö 8¢ >ª Nf Ã&~º ãËj ¾æÚî . º KOH ¾Òö ~ >W -OH z ôjæ, RFÚ Ö;' jÖ; ' b æ~ >ª O ËK Ëç>îV H^ .. ¾Òö 8 ç>~ O³ê(K/S) º &N 5 N~ ' öB KOH ¾Ò ç >j ç7"òf Â"ò "ï ê "O ³ê(K/S)¢ ¾æ Þ Ö . Fig. 9ö ¾æÂ :f ? ç7"òf Â"ò "ï ãÖ Îv KOH ¾Ò ç>~ "O³êº ² Ã& ©b ¾æÒ . ç7"ò "ï "O³êº £ 1.8~2V, ~¶". Fig. 6. Drape Stiffness of cotton fabrics by varying conc. of KOH, treated temp. and time.. Fig. 7. Moisture regain of cotton fabrics by varying conc. of KOH, treated temp. and time.. 3.3. KOH Fig. 6. 3.4. KOH Fig. 7. ¾Òö 8 ç>~ R ; æz Fig. 8f ¾Ò çb &N 5 NöB~ 'b ¾ÒB KOH çb~ ;¢ ¾æÞ © . Fig. 8ö ¾æÂ :f ? (a)º ¾Ò çb RF ß F~ Â4ª ¾ V>º >, &N 5 NöB~ ' b KOH ¾ÒB çb (b), (c)º (a)ö j 4ª ¦Ú^ n~² æ ©j r > ® . º RF Ú¦ r¢Ò& R~ RF~ cJj ¢b B ~ 4ª ¦Úæ ö;b ¦¦ÚæV H^ . cJ*çf N &NöB Î& ² ¾æÒº, ¾ÒNê& Ôj> RF~ Ö;\ ³b R~º r¢Ò >zb~ · Ã&>V H^¢ 'B . 3.5. KOH. 3.6. KOH Fig. 9.

(11) KOH. ¾Ò ç>~ >9 # ï9. 95. Fig. 8. Fiber surface of cotton fabrics by best treatment conditions.. Fig. 9. K/S value of cotton fabrics by dyed using direct dye and natural dye.. ï~ ãÖº 3.7V ç ² ¾æ¾, ç>f KOH ¾Òö ~ ³ïb "ïB ©j { > ®î . $ ç7"ò "ï ãÖº KOH ¾Ò &NöB "O³ê& ¸² ¾ æÒ . ~¶ "ï ãÖº KOH ¾Ò N, &Nö & "O³ê~ N& ìº ©b ¾æÒ . º KOH ¾Òö ~ fJÊ Ö;¦ª~ \æzf jb "ò¢ z ô W>~² Nb "ïW ² Ë çB ©b 'B . 4.. Ö V. \öBº KOH¢ ÒÏ~ r¢Ò ¾Ò ç>~ > Wj jLÁ¦Æ~ ' j J; ê, ;æz¢ V~& . $ KOH ¾Ò& ç>~ "ïWö ~º ' Ëj ¦Æ Ö, r ?f Öj áî . ç>ö KOH ¾Ò &NöBº KOH ³ê 20%, ¾Ò * 180., NöBº KOH ³ê 25%, ¾Ò* 60.& ' ¾Ò .. ç>~ Ë;êf ;êº ¾Òö j KOH¾Òö ~ Ëç>îb, &N¾Ò~ ãÖ& N¾Ò ¸f ; ê¢ ¾æî . >»Nf KOH¾Ò~ ³êf * Ã&> rb, &N¾Ò~ ãÖ& N >»N ² ¾æ Ò . ;Wf KOH ¾Òö ~ &N¾Ò N ¸² ¾æÒb &NöBº 20%, NöBº 25%~ ³êöB & Ë ¸f ;Wj ~îÎ¢ ¦ > ®î . >ªN f &N 5 NöB KOH ¾Ò ç> ¾Ò ç> . Ëç>îb &N¾Ò& N¾Ò ¸² ¾æÒ . ; º KOH ¾Òö ~ ?J >»ö ~ Â4ª ô ¦Ú^ n~² æ~& . "O³ê(K/S)º ç7"ò "ï ãÖº 1.8~2V, ~¶ "ï ãÖº 3.7V çb KOH¾Ò ç>~ K/S8 ¾Ò ç>ö j ² Ë çB ©b ¾æÒ .. ^^ò ÇzBÁB'ÁJ> (1995) N Nö ~R NaOH ^Bz ç>~ "ïW # >W. R\æ, 10, 69-77. ÇzB (2002) “Ú¦ >¶öb¦8 8ËW ® 5 ~~² Ò BB. ?«¶v 8>{ÏÒë(II)”. "8F¦, " B®^ MI-0022-01-0000 pp.81-116. ;"ÁBêÖÁB"Á; (2000) “RF&”. ;JÂ$Ò, BÞ, pp.134-144 ßÁÇzBÁB÷\ (1998) ïÂ""ò~ "ïW(I) -~¶¢ 7

(12) b. ï²æ, 10(1), 1-10. s*jÁ~²ÁCö (1986) ç>~ &N ^ÚBz &. 4.²æ, 23(3), 205-214. Saafan (1984) Liquid ammonia and mercerization of cotton fibers using x-ray, infrared and sorption measurements. Textile Research Journal, 54(12), 863-865. Zeronian S.H. (1990) Factor affecting the tensile properties of nonmercerized and mercerized fibers. Textile Research Journal, 60(3), 179-183. Lewin M. and Sello S.B. (1983) “Handbook of Fiber Science and Technology Vol.1 Part A”. Marcel Dekker, New York, pp.93-157. (2004 12 16 ). j ú ¢ 7>.

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