Conservation of Chungjeong-Kwan, Joseon Dynasty

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(1)Conservation Science in Museum Vol. 3, pp. 29~36(2001). Csv° H~ äh/ ³†ÁÝ ÁNÁx BÞ¶&v ~~". Conservation of Chungjeong-Kwan, Joseon Dynasty Mee-sik Lee†, Mee-kyung Song, Soon-wha Bae and Moon-kyung Hong Dept. of Clothing Science, Seoul Women's University º £ ;öê öW ^&öB ÂÆB F& Î¶(Ï;&)¢ ¾Ò~& . Î¶º ·Î ÆÞ çb W>Ú ®îb, ÒRF~ nb Ë>Ú ®î . ¾Ò *~ Î¶º ~² J">Ú ®î ¦². ö ~ ¶çB ç& . Fb~ ¾Ò";f ¦Ú ¹" fqb ;J"bj B ê Fbj ææ > ®º Êr.Ê j Ï~ ¢ö2b 2Nfö ö ^ç~& . ª~ Ï º { æ»j ÒÏ~ B~& . ^ç ê Fb~ 6ïf 7.99%, ^ç *ê Fb~ ïNº 2.57j ¾æêb Fbö ¦O>Ú ®~ '« J"b î£>îb, Î¶~ & }æ Cjr . ^ç ê Ò/Ò¢ Ï~ ËÏ n j B¶Òö ;Ê Î¶~ Î·j Çj"º > ·ëj ¯~& . Abstract The hat excavated from the tomb of Hojeo-myon Wonsung-gun in Kangwon province was dry-cleaned and restored. The hat was made of wool felt and decorated with several strands of silk cord. It was very dirty and moth-eaten. After getting rid of the particle soils on a surface with painting brush, the hat was dry-cleaned using perchloroethylene applying the minimum force, and blotting paper was used for drying. During cleaning, it was supported by the stainless steel net. The weight loss was 7.94% after cleaning. The soils sticked on the hat was removed clearly. The texture of the hat became softer after cleaning. Color difference(∆E) was 2.57, which is a noticeable change. The color became clear and changed to the red and yellow range. After dry-cleaning, the hat was repaired. Dislocated silk cords were fixed to the right place by stitching with silk yarn. To keep the shape of the hat, it should be supported by a hat-shaped stiff net during exibition and storing.. I. B. . Ï>º &j ‘H’¢ ®&b, ÆÒ r(ü Ã)¢ ò. , ¦;ï È(Ò)¾ ¦;ï {([)b ¯j ò î. . Î;(Î¶~ S&V)f Ò';ö & 7*f £ * Åf ;, öº 5(·)b &j Ë~& . Ë ïf .Fb ûîb, Î¶ Ý~ · Æ B(à)ê .Fb "æj Ë® . 4® ~º .Fj ÒÏ~æ á~& .1) T (S;) *öê Bê W& ö Î¶¢ ÒÏ~ê ~&b, c 7® ç...cmu§®, G% ¦®, þ®, ô®çð çö²ò ê ~& . öº Ï;&j ÒÏ~º ©j î£~æ p~ .2) Þ, ÖÒ¾¢~ Ï;&f F& Ò&¦& ïç. ã 7;b& ²Ë~ ·Î ÆÞ Î¶(;öê öW ^& ÂÆ)º ÖÒ¾¢öBº ¾rb ÂÆ>º Ï;&bB Ò' G ö jî¢ f ; öBê 7º ~¢ <º . ÂÆB Ï;&~ Vö 5 &' Vãj ÚÚ. r" ? . ® ^« &; *ö ' ®& (§¶öB ") rf (ïç ÷öB) ö OÏ~ º ö & &æ ; ò Úr . r Ò. †. Corresponding author : Dept. of Clothing Science, Seoul Women's University Tel : 02)970-5625 E-mail : [email protected]. § ÁuA® ÓÂ-P°úoÍÔDÃ×ã, p.188 SäÓÂ-P°ú§Ô, Â-5wDÃ, p.438. 1). 2). 29 https://doi.org/10.22790/conservation.2001.3.0029.

(2) 30. ;b&" B 3 ÷ (2001). Fig. 1. Front of the hat before cleaning.. Fig. 2. Side of the hat before cleaning.. ö ~ &bB, 7öB *¾>îbÓ®§Ô, Ó³®È¯Ôº Hb ÓïeÆÈÔöº Hb V~ ® . ;º Sæ& jÊ~ &B ªÎ·b V ® 5(·&) ÚB¢ ÎO®b Bê ÒO &&~ ÎBÒ& ì . F7V ê Ò&¦ &Ój Â« r öº ç Ï;& j ¢ .3) 7öBº ÂÆFb «« >æò, Ö Ò¾¢ ª>öB Ï;& ÂÆB ©f ¾r®º ¢ . Fbf Fig. 1~3~ ÒêöB " > ® ÂÆ ö ¦O>Ú ®î~ '« J"bî ~ ~². Fig. 3. Back of the hat before cleaning.. Fig. 4. Moth-damaged side part of the hat.. J"B &j ®îb, ËÏ nj &ö ¦ OV~ Ò/Ò& ¦ª'b ÎÚ^ ¾&¾, j. ìÚ^B B¶Ò¢ dæ á n V&V ö^ ®º ç& . 6 Fig. 4öB º :f ? ² G Gö ÿbW Wî RFö ¾æ¾º ¦².ö ~ ¶ç¦*ê dj" > ®îb, *Áêö öB ¦f âb ê~² J"B ¦ª Fig. 5ê ® î . Fb~ Wj ÚÚ, Î¶º /ÒF *& ìº Æ+ V»bò W>Ú ® . ¯ Î¶ ~~ ¾ Ò¦ª¾ *Áê~ à ¦ª Îv 7&ê ç. Ã^òj ² 79

(3) f 26 Rú1. f'? Ó^zÒ*Ôp.370. 3).

(4) Csv° H~ äh/. 31. RF~ »[ö ~ 7>Ú ®b, ËÏ j ¦ª ò Î¶ ö ÒÒ ûÚ^ ®î . Fb~ *Áê ;¢ êz~ Fig. 6, 7ö ¾æ Úî .. II.. þ. Fbj ¾Ò~º ";ö jº &æ *. þj ê¯~& . ";j b Fb~ ¾Ò·ëö & ç^ .N 5 ¾Ò ";j Ö ; > ® .. Fig. 5. Soiled side part of the hat.. 1. RF~ W Fbj W~ ®º RF~ Wf Î¶~ Ú ¦ ª" n(j) ¦ª~ v «~ ò¢ &çb, ^ç * ¾Ò ÎÚ^ ¾N RF¢ j~ *ã(Leica MPS 32)b &V~ 6ê~& . 2. çb~ ç Î¶¢ ®º çb~ çj pick glass &V ~ {~& . 3. Î¶~ vþ Î¶~ vþ¢ KS K 0511ö &~, êêê¢ ÒÏ ~ 5² G; ê ï~& . 4. Î¶~ Z² ^ç ê Î¶ö ¦O>Ú ®~ J"b~ B ;ê¢ ;ï'b ªC~V *~ ^ç *ê Î¶~ Z²¢ G; ê, r~ (1) 6ïj êÖ~& .. Fig. 6. Diagram of Chungjeong-kwan (Front).. W1 – W2 - × 100 6ï(%) = ------------------W1. ( 1). W1 : ^ç *~ ò Z² W2 : ^ç ê~ ò Z². 5. Î¶~ ï" ïN Chroma meter(CR-200, Minolta)¢ Ï~ Î¶~ L, a, b 8j G;~&b, ^ç *ê~ ï æz¢ r jV *~ ïN(∆E)¢ Hunter~ ïN (2)ö ~ ~ êÖ~& . 2 1⁄2. ∆E = [ ( ∆L ) + ( ∆a ) + ( ∆b ) ] 2. Fig. 7. Diagram of Chungjeong-kwan (Back).. 2. ∆L = Lsample − Lstandard ∆a = asample − astandard ∆b = bsample − bstandard. ( 2).

(5) ;b&" B 3 ÷ (2001). 32. III. Fb~ ^ç 1. Ï ~ F; J"B Fb~ '. ^çO»f çbö ¦O>Ú ®º J"j B¢ ö jî¢ ^ç ê7 çb ö ¶ç¾ æ;, 6º '« bW~ æz¢ ¢bÊæ pº O»Ú¢ . ·Î B®~ ^çöº &¦ª FVÏ ¢ ÒÏ . º ·Î¢ b^ç~ ^ç ~ îVKö ~ RF ~ Ê&¢ »[>V r ^ . Fb~ ãÖ JÂ *ö ö &ÚöB bö <f ç ®î~ ©j J~ b^ç~º O»j 'Ï~z¢ê Fbö z ç~ »[ ¢Ú¾æº p j ©b V&>îb¾, ® Fb" ? JÂ V* ö ö ¶çB ÆÞ çb~ ãÖ, »[~ ^B ê z>Ú £ê RF bö cJ>Ú ¶ç>¾ FböB î£F ©j ÖJ~ FVÏ ¢ ÒÏ~ ^ç~V ~& . Fb~ ^çö ÒÏ FVÏ º ¢ö2 (perchloroethylene, CCl2CCl2)bB, Nz ÏKj < ¾4) Zï Ï . ò j7 1.62 ZÚ Þ¢ z>Ú £ê RFB®j ^ç~Vö ZÒ¢ > ® b¾, Gj j~V *~ Fbö &æº bÒ' ¾j ²z > ®ê Fb Vö ' Êr.Ê j B·(Fig. 8, 9)~ ^ç ÒÏ~&. . 6 ^ç *ö Fbö ~º Ï ~ 'Ëj rjV *~ Ï ö ' filter paper¢ Fbö blottingb Fbö îï 5 ¶ç ìrj {~ & .. Fig. 8. The hat dipped in solvent.. fWN, ^Bf ^ç~ ", v^Ò, 1998. 4). 2. ^ç *¾Ò ^ç *ö Fbö *Ú'b ¦O>Ú ®º jv' «¶& ;J"b, , Fb~ /ÒF Òö ¢Ú®º ·f ò '« J"bj Fbö ¶çj " æ pº ê ÚöB fq" ¦Ú ¹j ÒÏ~ Ê#² ÎÚÚî . 6 *ö Òòê 5B~ f n(j)" ÖG öò Îj®º 1B~ &º n, Ò Î¶ *Áêö ~ê ËÏ n B& ;>Ú ®æ pj & ^ç~ ªÒ>¾ ² F ÖJ& ®V r^ö ^ç *ö Ò &º Ò/Ò¢ Ï~ Î¶ Úö ; Êº ·ëj ¯~& . 3. ^ç "; ^çf 2Nfö ö ¯~& . Fb Ï ö <f çöBº J"b âî¾ B>îºæ, ö Ú ¶ ;ê Îj®ºæ¢ { > ìV r^ö 1² ^ç ê Fbj Ê ¾B J"b~ º ¦¢ { ê jºö V¢ Ò^ç~V ~& . Ñ ® ^çf ^çö Î¶¢ I Ï ö æ Î ê 3-5ª* j ¦#² ^îB J"bj B ~º ·ëj 4² >~& . 4² æ~ ^ç ê filter paper {æ~ ª ~ Ï ¢ B~ Î¶~ Vö ² ¦Ú æ ¢ Î¶ Úö Ï*~ Î·j ;V (Fig. 10, 11). æ ÿn Fbj Î ê ö ¦O>Ú ®º J"b~ ·" ¦*¢ Ò~ 2²ö ö Ï. ö æ, ^ç~& . Ñ ® ^çöBf ÿ¢ O» b ^ç ê filter paper ª~ Ï ¢ B~. Fig. 9. Taking out the hat from solvent using washing net..

(6) Csv° H~ äh/. 33. Fig. 10. Front of the hat after the first cleaning.. Fig. 11. Back of the hat after the first cleaning.. æ Î¶ Ú¦¢ Ï*~ V .. 3. Fb~ vþ æz Fb~ vþ¢ ^ç *ê ª~ jv Ö", ^ ç êö *Ú'b £ 10.2%~ vþ 6²Nj ¾æÚ î . º Î¶ö ¦O>Ú ®~ 5 '« J"b ^çö ~ çï B>îrj ¾æÚº ©, 6. 4. ^ç ê¾Ò ^ç êö ËÏ n j Î¶ ö Îj®~ z '", Î¶ nãö Îj®º ¾J^ ¾* ~ z' j ^~ B¶Ò¢ dj ;Ê, pÎ^ ¾* ¦ªê ÖB >~& . >ö ÒÏ f Ë Ï n" FÒ ïç~ ÿ¢ ²Ò Ò/Ò¢ & ¾² ¦Ú ÒÏ~&, :¾f~ *Ïê Î¶ Ú¦~ ûî~ z'j ùj ö çö &² ö~¶ ~& .. IV. þ Ö" 1. RF~ W Fbj ®º RF~ Wj *ã»j Û ~ &V Ö", Î¶ Úº ·ÎRF(wool) © b ¾æÒ . ¢>'b ·ÎRF~ Ê&¢f * ã &V Ö F«~² ¾æÂ . ¾ F bf JÂ *ö ö z> ¶ç>îV r^ö ~ Ê&¢ ô t^ ¾:b¾, Ê&¢ Ff Â] &V>Ú(Figs. 13, 16) ·ÎRFªj { > ®î . ËÏ n ¦ªf &ç ÒRF Òò>îb, Î Ú^¾* ¦ªöB 1 mm ;ê~ & j âÚÚÚ * ãb &V Ö", Figs. 17, 18öBf ? n Gj º ÒRF(silk) {>î . 2. çb~ ç Î¶¢ ®º çbf ·Î RF¢ »[B ò ÆÞ(felt) çb ©b ¾æÒ .. Table 1. Thickness change of the hat after cleaning çb~ vþ(mm) ^ç *. 1.730. ^ç ê. 1.553. ^ç ê 6²N 10.2%. Table 2. Weight loss of the hat after cleaning çb~ Z² (g) ^ç *. 75.6. ^ç ê. 69.6. 6ï 7.94%. Fig. 12. Microscopic image of wool fiber - before cleaning (×100).

(7) 34. ;b&" B 3 ÷ (2001). Fig. 13. Microscopic image of wool fiber - before cleaning (×200).. Fig. 14. Microscopic image of wool fiber - before cleaning (×400).. Fig. 15. Microscopic image of wool fiber - after cleaning (×200).. Fig. 16. Microscopic image of wool fiber - after cleaning (×400).. Fig. 17. Microscopic image of silk fibr - before cleaning (×400).. Fig. 18. Microscopic image of silk fibr - before cleaning (×400).. Î¶~ î6ê J"b aÚB ®~ © ô ¦òrrj r > ®î .. 7.94%~ Z²& 6²~& . Fbf ^ç *ö Gnb ê ç® ôf J"b ¦O>Ú ®rj &V > ®îb, Fig. 12~14öBf ? *ã çbê J"b ô ¦O>Ú ®rj { > ®î . J"b Fig. 15, 16öBf ? ^ç êöº . 4. Fb~ 6ï Î¶~ Z²¢ ^ç *ê jv Ö", ^ç êö £.

(8) Csv° H~ äh/. Fig. 19. Front of the hat after conservation. Table 3. Color difference before and after cleaning ^ç *. ^ç ê. L. 34.25. 35.30. a. +5.10. +6.44. b. +12.45. +14.37. ïN(∆E). 2.57. Table 4. Sensible expressions of color difference N.B.S.* unit. The sensible expressions of color difference. 0~0.5. Trace (£~ ). 0.5~1.5. Slight ("²~ ). 1.5~3.0. Noticeable (.ö n ). 3.0~6.0. Appreciable (6æ ;ê). 6.0~12.0. Much (ô ). over 12.0. Very much ( Ö ô ) *National Bureau of Standard Unit. }~² BB ©j " > ® . 6ï 8%ö &r Þ ;ê ² ¾æÂ ©f Æ· Wªb º;>º J"b ô ¦O>Ú ®î~ ©b j & ¦ª î£>B ¾" 6ïj ¾æÞ ©b ÒòB . Fig. 17, 18öBº n ¦ªj ®º ÒRF& ^ç êö }ê ©j r > ® . 6 Fig. 19, 20 f ^ç ê *Ú' Fb &bB, ^ç *~ Fig. 1~3ö j~ Ö }rrj r > ®, ËÏ n. 35. Fig. 20. Back of the hat after conservation.. ê B¶Ò¢ dj ;>ÚB ;ÒB &j " ® .. 5. Fb~ ïN ^ç *ê G; Fb~ ïêº Table 3ö ¾æ¾ ®. . 6 ^ç *ê Fb~ ï æz ;ê¢ rjÚV * ~ ïN¢ êÖ Ö", ïN(∆E)º 2.57î . > ~¢ Table 4~ ïN~ 6'' *öB dj noticeable, ¯ ^ç *ö j~ ^ç êö Fb~ ï .ö jº ;ê~ ïN¢ ¾æÚîrj ~ . ^ç *ê~ ÒêöBê jv > ® Fbö ¦O>Ú ®~ '« J"bî ÎÚ^ ¾&B Fb } æ Cjr . ¯ FböB ï~ «ê¢ ¾æÚº L8 æB Fb *Ú'b Cjê ©j r > ® b, Fb~ *Ú' ïº Gnb Vö .ï æò af b8~ æzöB 'ï~ ï& ^ç êö . z F«rrj r > ® .. V. Ö. . ;öê öW ^&öB ÂÆB Î¶ 16ö & ¾Ò Ö"º r" ? . ù Î¶¢ W~ ®º RF~ Wf ·Î Ú^ ®îb, ËÏ nf ÒRF {>î . ù Î¶¢ º çb~ º ·Î¢ »[B ò ÆÞçb . ù Î¶~ ^çf ·ÎRF~ ^çö ô ÒÏ>º ¢ ö2 Ïö æB ^ç~& . ^ç O »f Fbj ææ > ®º j B·~ n ö Fbj I, ^çö æB Fbö &î.

(9) 36. ;b&" B 3 ÷ (2001). > ®º bÒ' ¾j ²z~º O»b ^ç ~& . ù ^çf 2Nfö ö ¯~& . ¾rö 4² æ ê {æ»b ª~ Ï ¢ B~ Î¶ Ú¦ ö æ¢ Ï*~ Î·j Çj & ê V . Î¶& j*® B ê, Îj®º J"b~ ;ê f ¦*¢ Ò~ 2² æ ^ç~& . ù ^ç ê Î¶~ 6ïf 7.94% ¾æÒ . ¯ Î ¶ ö ¦O>Ú ®~ '« J"b ^ç ê ö &¦ª î£Nb Î¶~ & }rb , J"b~ 'Ëb ~&~ î6ê ç® ¦òr . ù ^ç *ê Fb~ ïN(∆E)º 2.57î . >~. º ^ç *ö j~ ^ç êö Fb~ ï .ö jº ;ê~ ïN¢ ¾æÚîrj ~ . ¯ F bö ¦O>Ú ®~ '« J"bî ÎÚ^ ¾& B Fb }æ Cjrb 'ï~ ï & ^ç êö F«r . ù Fb~ ^ç" >º «ò>îb¾, Î¶~ ;¢ :² FæB"V *Bº Î¶~ ;ö '. ææ&¢ B·~ Î¶ Ú¦ö IÚ * 5 &~º © jº~ . ù Wî RF~ ßWç ·Î B® Ï~ b ¢ «V Ú çb . V¢B &ö > ' . OÏB¢ IÚ2b z ç~ Ïb b¢ «æ pê F~¢ ..

(10)