y March 5, 2010

Rediscovering Japan Through a Culinary Odysse y

March 5, 2010

Vivian and David Campbell Conference Facility Munk Centre for International Studies

University of Toronto University Club of Toronto

An Asian Heritage Month Event

Exploring Korea

Through Its Foods and Foodways

June 10, 2011

8:30 am – 5:00 pm

Vivian and David Campbell Conference Facility Munk School of Global Affairs

University of Toronto

www.utoronto.ca/ai | (416) 946-8996

An Asian Heritage Month Event

[ 3 ]

Welcome to the Asian Institute’s third Asian Foodprints conference.

We are thrilled that this year’s focus is Korea, a natural progression from our earlier renditions which centred fi rst on China and Hong Kong and then on Japan. As we all know, the Korean government has invested heavily in globalizing Korean cuisine, both as a cultural export and as a source and model of healthy diet and nutrition. Asian Foodprints: Exploring Korea Through Its Foods and Foodways interrogates this dynamic process. Leading scholars and world-renowned practitioners of Korean cuisine will shed light on the cultural origins and evolution of food in Korea. The conference will feature panels that examine the production and consumption of Korean food, the social, economic and nutritional factors shaping food consumption, and cultural discourses around food.

The sessions will also feature a comparative lens through which to analyze cooking and eating patterns, illuminating how the factors that shape such patterns are global in scope. To be sure, with rising food prices around the world, there is no better time to explore these issues.

The Asian Foodprints conference is a major endeavor, not only in terms of its scholarly impact and cultural reach, but also with respect to the logistical support required to pull off something of this scale and ambition. I would like to personally extend my congratulations and appreciation to the Consul General Ji-in Hong of the Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Toronto and his staff for their tremendous hard work, support and vision invested in this project. I would also like to thank Eileen Lam, the Asian Institute Manager, for her tireless eff orts in pulling together a wonderful academic program as well as for ensuring that her professional sheen is applied with vigor to the conference. Where would we be without Eileen Lam and the support of her staff ? Much appreciation is extended also to the Centre for the Study of Korea and the University Club of Toronto for their enthusiastic support.

And fi nally, I would like to thank all of you – the experts, participants, sponsors and guests – for your continued interest and expectations for high quality, innovative programming from the Asian Institute. Enjoy the conference.

Joseph Wong, PhD Canada Research Chair

Associate Professor, Political Science Director, Asian Institute

Message from the Director, Asian Institute

/ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /

PROFESSOR JOSEPH WONG

Asian Institute at the University of Toronto

Munk School of Global Aff airs 1 Devonshire Place,

Room 227n

Toronto, on m5s 3k7

t 416 946 8996 f 416 946 8838

e asian.institute@utoronto.ca w www.utoronto.ca/ai

I am pleased to extend my warmest greetings to everyone attending “Asian Foodprints: Exploring Korea Through its Foods and Foodways,” being hosted by the University of Toronto’s Asian Institute at the Munk School of Global Affairs.

This conference offers participants a unique opportunity to examine, in an academic setting, the complex role of Korean cuisine as it relates to Asian society, government, and the economy.

I am certain that everyone in attendance will enjoy the chance to learn more about Korea through its food and food culture and to share their knowledge and experiences with one another. I would like to congratulate the organizers of the conference for their efforts in putting together a stimulating program that is sure to foster thoughtful dialogue, as well as culinary discoveries.

Please accept my best wishes for a productive and enjoyable meeting.

The Rt. Hon. Stephen Harper, P.C., M.P.

OTTAWA

2011

F rom the O ntario

M inister of T ourism and C ulture

June 10, 2011

Asian Foodprints: Exploring Korea Th rough its Food and Foodways

On behalf of the McGuinty government, I am pleased to extend greetings to everyone attending Asian Foodprints: Exploring Korea Through its Food and Foodways.

In Ontario, we are fortunate to have access to a wide variety of culinary experiences, which in turn broadens our appreciation and knowledge of cultures worldwide. This conference helps contribute to our province’s cultural mosaic and enriches Ontario’s communities.

During your stay in Toronto, I hope you will participate in some of our many eclectic dinning and entertainment options. Whether you visit the famous CN Tower, cheer on one of the city’s acclaimed sports teams, indulge in our world-class hotels and shopping, or tour the renowned Art Gallery of Ontario and Royal Ontario Museum, I know you will discover adventures that create lasting memories.

Ontario offers visitors the opportunity to tour exquisite wineries, attend premier theatrical productions, luxuriate at numerous spa vacation resorts, and enjoy our famed cottage country. By traveling across Ontario’s 13 tourism regions, you are sure to be treated to the full mosaic that we proudly call home.

Please accept my best wishes for an enjoyable conference.

Yours truly,

Michael Chan

Minister

A Message from the Mayor

It gives me great pleasure to extend greetings and a warm welcome to everyone attending Asian Foodprints: Exploring Korea Through its Foods and Foodways hosted by the University of Toronto’s Asian Institute at the Munk School of Global Affairs.

Launched in 2009, the Asian foodprints conference showcases Asia’s vitality through food, food culture and the production and consumption of food. This year’s event focuses on Korea and will aim to increase the rising popularity of Korean food and globalize it as both a cultural and commodity export.

The conference is a wonderful opportunity to learn about different aspects of Korean food ad will feature guest speakers, panel discussions, food demonstrations and concludes with a delicious dinner and reception.

On behalf of Toronto City Council, I thank everyone involved in making this event possible and extend my best wishes for an informative and enjoyable conference.

Yours truly,

Mayor Rob Ford

City of Toronto

[ 10 ]

The Asian Institute’s 2011 Asian Foodprints builds on the success of its earlier renditions and continues to raise the standards of our Foodprints series, this year with the topic Exploring Korea Through Its Foods and Foodways. In our previous two conferences — the fi rst on China and Hong Kong in 2009, and the second on Japan in 2010 — we have learned about national discourses surrounding food, and explored the processes of historical retrieval and forward-looking invention and construction that inform the always-contested notion of authenticity as it applies to foods of a given geographical region. We continue to see examples of how foods and the practices surrounding them — foodways — are mediated through processes of globalization and social stratifi cation. This year’s conference takes a step further to examine how food production, presentation and consumption are shaped by nutritional imperatives and consumer tastes, as well as larger social, economic and political forces — the consequences of which are signifi cant enough to warrant Professor Michael Pettid’s provocative question in the introductory section: More Important Than Sex?

Exploring Korea Through Its Foods and Foodways interrogates these fascinating dynamics in the context of Korea. Over the past several years, the South Korean government has attempted to globalize Korean cuisine as a cultural commodity and as a model for nutrition and healthy food consumption. From the purported medicinal eff ects of kimchi during the SARS epidemic of 2003 to the multi-dish presentation and consumption of formal meals and the many Korean food festivals appearing in major cities around the world, Korean cuisine has indeed “gone global.” But what does this mean, and how has globalization in turn shaped Korean food?

The fi rst panel, Social Changes and Cultural Discourses on Food, features leading experts on the cultural evolution of Korean food and foodways, touching on the nation’s colonial past as well as its more contemporary encounters with other cultural imports.

The second panel, Food, Health and Market Forces, provides a comparative view of nutrition and food consumption. Animated by observations from outside of Korea, along with a view from within,

ASIAN FOODPRINTS

Exploring Korea

Through Its Foods and Foodways

/ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /

PRESENTED BY THE ASIAN INSTITUTE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO, JUNE ωψ, ϊψωω

[ 11 ]

experts will discuss the intersection of food consumption and tastes, nutritional imperatives, socio-economic stratifi cation and health outcomes. The third panel, Korean Food: Cooking and Eating Practices, centres squarely on food practices, and their social and economic underpinnings. Experts will engage a range of topics from the business of Korean cuisine to its representations in popular culture.

We expect Exploring Korea to be our best Foodprints yet.

The conference is hosted by the Asian Institute, Canada’s largest Asia-focused research and teaching centre, and the Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Toronto. However, this conference is a collaborative endeavour, with signifi cant contributions and support from the Dr. David Chu Distinguished Leaders Program and Community Network in Asia Pacifi c Studies, and the Centre for the Study of Korea at the University of Toronto.

[ 12 ]

/ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /

FRIDAY, JUNE ωψ VENUE:

Vivian and David Campbell Conference Facility Munk School of Global Aff airs

University of Toronto

8:30 – 9:00 REGISTRATION AND BREAKFAST

• Continental and Korean breakfast 9:00 – 9:30 WELCOME

• Professor Joseph Wong (Canada Research Chair, Political Science;

Director, Asian Institute, University of Toronto)

OPENING REMARKS

• Senator Vivienne Poy, Honorary Patron (Chancellor Emerita of the University of Toronto)

• Consul General Ji-in Hong

(Consulate General of the Republic of Korea in Toronto)

9:30 – 10:15 INTRODUCTION

• More Important than Sex?

Foodways and Korean Culture

Professor Michael Pettid (Korean Studies in Asian and Asian American Studies;

Director of Translation Research and Instruction Program (TRIP), Binghamton University-State University of New York) 10:15 – 10:30 BREAK

10:30 – 11:45 PANEL I: Social Changes

and Cultural Discourses on Food

• Constructing National Hauté Cuisine in Globalizing Korea — Professor Okpyo Moon (Anthropology; Dean of Graduate School, Academy of Korean Studies, Korea)

• From Nutrition to Aesthetics: Meaning of Rice and Rice Consumption in Korea — Professor Kwang Ok Kim (Anthropology, Seoul National University, Korea)

• Colonial Food Modernity at Its Formation — An Analysis of Food Discourses of Korea in the 1920s and 1930s — Ms Jina Lee (Author;

PhD Candidate in Anthropology, Seoul National University, Korea)

• Discussant: Professor Rick Halpern (Bissell-Heyd Chair of American Studies; Dean, University of Toronto Scarborough)

11:45 – 12:30 FOOD DEMONSTRATION

• Corporate Chef Chan Bu Jung (Bulgogi Brothers; former Korean Cuisine Executive Head, The Blue House, Korean Presidential Offi ce) 12:30 – 2:00 LUNCH

• Hosted by Consul General Ji-in Hong (Consulate General of the Republic of Korea)

Program

[ 13 ]

2:00 – 3:15 PANEL II: Food, Health, and Market Forces

• Dynamic Korean Cuisine: Food and Nutrition — Professor Soo-Kyung Lee (Food and Nutrition, Inha University, Korea)

• Nutrition, Food Marketing, and Population Health — Professor Valerie Tarasuk (Nutritional Sciences, Faculty of Medicine, University of Toronto)

• Affl uent Food Priorities: Healthy &

“Green,” Authentic & Exotic — Professor Josée Johnston (Sociology, University of Toronto at Mississauga)

• Discussant: Dr. Catherine L. Mah

(Centre for Addiction and Mental Health;

Head, Food Policy Research Initiative, Ontario Tobacco Research Unit) 3:15 – 3:30 BREAK

3:30 – 4:45 PANEL III: Korean Food:

Cooking and Eating Practices

• Korean Food and Its Representations

— Dr. Bruce Kraig (Professor Emeritus in History and Humanities, Roosevelt University in Chicago; president of Culinary Historians of Chicago;

host and writer)

• Branding Korean Food in the Global Market: Globalization Strategies through Authenticity and Innovation — Mr. Chai- Woo Yi (president, Bulgogi Brothers)

• From Inside the Korean Stomach:

Stories and Etiquette at the Korean Table — Ms Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee (Award- winning chef, writer and artist)

• Discussant: Professor Vanina Leschziner (Sociology, University of Toronto) 4:45 – 5:00 CLOSING REMARKS

• Professor Ito Peng (Sociology;

Associate Dean, Faculty of Arts and Science, University of Toronto)

/ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /

VENUE:

University Club of Toronto 380 University Avenue, Toronto 5:30 – 6:30 RECEPTION

6:30 DINNER

KOREAN ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE TASTING Food by: Corporate Chef Chan Bu Jung

(Bulgogi Brothers; former Korean Cuisine Executive Head, The Blue House, Korean Presidential Offi ce); Executive Chef Jimmy Heung Soon Im (Bulgogi Brothers); with assistance from the sous chefs at Bulgogi Brothers, Toronto

MCs: Ms Byulna Ryo (former Miss Korea representing Canada; Service Director, Air Canada) and Mr. Sonny Cho (former Toronto City Councillor candidate;

President, Avantis Inc.; and member of the Board of Directors, Ontario Place Corporation)

[ 14 ]

SONNY CHO

is an ever-energetic participant in the community. Over the years, he has served in various executive capacities for a number of groups, such as the Korean Canadian Scholarship Foundation, Metro Caravan Seoul and the Riverdale Swim Team. Recently, Sonny has been appointed as a member of the Ontario Place Corporation Board of the Directors, where he will play an important role in the revitalization program. He was also a Toronto City Councillor candidate for Willowdale in 2010 where he fi nished as a strong second.

Sonny is President of Avantis Inc. As a successful entre- preneur specializing in commercial real estate, Sonny served key roles in drawing several multinational corporations to the Greater Toronto Area. Kia Motors and Shinhan Bank are just some notable examples.

Sonny holds a Bachelor of Commerce degree from the University of Toronto.

RICK HALPERN

is the Bissell-Heyd Chair of American Studies and Dean at the University of Toronto Scarbor- ough. He is an historian who has written about race and labour in a number of national and transnational contexts. His interest in food and culinary history is both personal and professional.

CONSUL GENERAL JI-IN HONG

joined the Ministry of Foreign Aff airs and Trade MOFAT of the Republic of Korea in 1981 and has worked at various diplomatic mis- sions, including the Korean Embassies in Ottawa (1986), Islamabad (1992), Washington DC (1995), New Delhi (2000) and The Hague (2002). He was the Director of the Planning and Research Division of the Institute of Foreign Aff airs and National Security IFANS of MOFAT in 1998 and Director of MOFAT’s Regional Cooperation Division of the Multilateral Trade Bureau in 1999. He was the Deputy Director-General of the MOFAT Bilateral Trade Bureau in 2005. From 2007, he served as the Director-General of the Trade Cooperation Bureau of the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Energy, which later became the Ministry of Knowledge Economy. Ji-in Hong assumed his position as the Consul General of the Republic of Korea in Toronto in August 2008. He is a graduate of Korea University with a BA in Political Science and International Relations and also received an MIA from the School of International and Public Aff airs at Columbia University in New York. He is married with two sons and one daughter.

JIMMY HEUNG SOON IM

fi rst set foot in Canada when he accompanied the former Korean President on a state visit in 1982. He has prepared a number of major banquets, including a dinner held by Prime Minister Pierre E. Trudeau.

From 2007 – 2008, he was a frequent guest on Rogers TV’s Daytime live show as a Japanese chef. He presently works as a corporate chef and instructor for Gabee Corporation.

JOSÉE JOHNSTON

focuses her research on the sociolog- ical study of food. This research examines the cultural and political dimensions of people’s food choices. She is particu- larly interested in food projects that link consumer choice to social justice and ecological sustainability. Johnston co-authored (with Shyon Baumann) Foodies: Democracy and Distinction in the Gourmet Foodscape (Routledge, 2010). She has published articles in venues including American Journal of Sociology, Theory and Society, Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society, Gender and Society, and Antipode:

A Radical Journal of Geography. She is Associate Professor in the Department of Sociology, University of Toronto.

» Affl uent Food Priorities: Healthy & “Green,”

Authentic & Exotic

The global food system is extraordinarily stratifi ed – both within and across states. At one end of the spectrum, people struggle to meet their basic food needs. At the other end, affl uent consumers choose from a dazzling array of foods sourced from around the globe, and off ering a plethora of health benefi ts.

Based on various research projects studying North American food culture and consumption, this pre- sentation will outline some of the key qualities af- fl uent consumers value when making food choices;

it will also explore some of the possibilities and con- tradictions embedded in these food priorities. Two key food priorities include a concern for health and

“green” consumption. While these values increase possibilities for a more sustainable and healthy food system, even within an affl uent North American city like Toronto, access to healthy-green foods is heavily stratifi ed based on class and neighbourhood. Au- thenticity and exoticism are two other key qualities valued by affl uent “foodies.” While these traits also open up positive possibilities (such as supporting

“authentic” artisan food producers and multicultural eating), eating authentic, exotic foods requires sig- nifi cant amounts of economic and cultural capital that marginalized consumers can ill aff ord.

Participants

[ 15 ]

CHEF CHAN BU JUNG

has over fi fteen years of culinary mastery and leadership under his belt. He is currently a corporate chef of Bulgogi Brothers, one of the most successful franchise businesses in South Korea, and has also served the Korean Presidential family and visiting dignitaries while working as an executive chef at the Blue House. He has actively participated as a repre- sentative in various events promoting the globalization of Korean food. He is the winner of numerous awards including the Western Chosun Hotel Exemplary Employee Award and the Seoul Garden Hotel Cooking Competition (First Place), and served as the Korean Chef Representa- tive at the UN Headquarters’ Korean Cuisine Festival.

KWANG OK KIM

(BA Seoul National University, DPhil Oxford) has carried out extensive social and cultural anthropological fi eldwork in China, Taiwan and Korea, with theoretical interests in the issues of nationalism, power, history, religion and material culture, includ- ing food studies. He has taught anthropology at Seoul National University since 1980 and has served as Visiting Professor at Peking University and Harvard University, President of the Korean Society of Cultural Anthropology, Director of the Center for Social Sciences of Seoul Na- tional University and Vice-President of the Korean Social Science Research Council. His recent publications include Chinese Peasantry in Revolution and Reform, Yangban:

The Life World of Korean Scholar Gentry, Ethnicity and Nation: Beyond the Myths of its Uniformity and Universality and “Rice Cuisine and Cultural Practice in Contemporary Korean Dietary Life,” (Korea Journal 50 –1, Spring 2010).

» From Nutrition to Aesthetics: Meaning of Rice and Rice Consumption in Korea Over the past decades, signifi cant changes have been noted in the patterns of rice consumption and in the meanings attached to it. Rice can no longer be considered as the main staple food in Korean dietary life as in the past, a phenomenon that has resulted in the dramatic decrease in the absolute amount of rice consumption along with a concomitant decline in agricultural population.

The development, however, has been accompa- nied with an unprecedented diversifi cation of rice cuisine including inventions of new dishes, cook- ing methods, and related discourses. By examining this dual process against the background of overall socio-economic changes in Korea, it will be at- tempted in this presentation to address the issues of nationalism, aesthetics, lifestyle and globalization in relation to the cultural implications of food and food consumption.

BRUCE KRAIG

(PhD University of Pennsylvania, 1969) is Professor Emeritus in History and Humanities at Roos- evelt University in Chicago and Adjunct Faculty at the Culinary School of Kendall College, Chicago.

Kraig’s publications include a range of articles in academ- ic journals and books on European and world prehistory and American history. He is the author of many books on culinary history and cookery, including Mexican American Plain Cooking (Nelson-Hall, 1982), The Cuisines of Hidden Mexico (John Wiley, 1996), Favorite Recipes: A Columbian Exposition Autograph Souvenir Cookbook (1893) (as editor, University of Illinois Press, 2000), and Hot Dog: A Global History (Reaktion Press, 2009). He has written numerous articles on food and food history as a regular newspaper food columnist for the largest community newspaper group in the Chicago area and as a guest writer for major daily newspapers. He had served as an editor of large scale publications such as The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America (Senior Editor and co-editor of the forthcoming second edition). He is Series Editor of a new University of Illinois Press book series, Heartland Foodways. At present he is contracted to write The Ency- clopedia of World Street Food (ABC-Clio), American Food (Reaktion), and Man Bites Dog: The Culture of American Hot Dogs (Alta Mira).

Professor Kraig is the Founding President of the Culinary Historians of Chicago and the Chicago Food and Food- ways Roundtable, and is President of the new Greater Midwest Foodways Alliance. He is a board member of American Friends of the Oxford (UK) Symposium on Food and Cookery. In 2003 and continuing through 2006, he was the Consulting Scholar for the Illinois Humanities Council and Smithsonian Institutions’ Museums on Main Street project entitled “Key Ingredients.” In this capacity, he has lectured to, and consulted with, historical societ- ies and museums throughout the state on the subject of food history and traditional culture. He is also a long time Illinois Road Scholar, the public speaking arm of the Illinois Humanities Council. Kraig was appointed Scholar- in-Residence for the International Association of Culinary Professionals for 2006 – 2007, and in 2009 gave an address at the Library of Congress on food and baseball history.

» Korean Food and Its Representations In today’s globalized world, one in which Korea plays a signifi cant economic role, Korean culture is just becoming better known than in the past. Since food in all of its meanings is integral to any culture, Korea’s cuisine is a leading edge of that process. This talk presents two ways that Korean food culture en- ters a wider world consciousness: mass media; and serving the food itself.

[ 16 ] As a documentary maker and culinary historian, I will discuss the making of the documentary, Hid- den Korea. This documentary examines traditional foodways, centered on the festival of chusok, set in a modern industrialized country. The theme is continuity and change in culture.

As for the food itself, as a historian of food who works in fast food/street food, the question of how Korean cuisine has or has not penetrated American and world repertoires is of interest. Will Korean fare follow the path of other now popular traditions such as Chinese and Japanese (to say nothing of Mexican and Italian)? Is it too insular, too culture-specifi c to gain wide acceptance? Or, like the others, will it be modifi ed by local/national tastes and thus become a hybrid, like Chinese-American?

CECILIA HAE-JIN LEE

is an award-winning chef, writer and artist who specializes in fi ne arts, illustration, photog- raphy and design. She writes about food, travel, arts, fi lm, culture and pretty much anything that isn’t “hard news.”

She has written for the Los Angeles Times, the Washington Post, the Asian Pacifi c American Journal, Whole Life Times, Food & Wine Magazine, Eating Well and numerous other publications. A James Beard Award nominee, she has written several cookbooks, including Eating Korean: From Barbecue to Kimchi, Recipes from My Home, Quick and Easy Korean Cooking and Quick & Easy Mexican Cooking. Her recipes have also been included in Eating Well Serves Two:

150 Healthy in a Hurry Recipes and in Food & Wine’s annual Best of the Best Cookbooks. Her travel writing includes several editions of Frommer’s South Korea and the latest Frommer’s Day by Day guide to Seoul.

» From Inside the Korean Stomach: Stories and Etiquette at the Korean Table

In the last decade, Korean food has been propelled into the spotlight. What was once an unfamiliar, mysterious cuisine to Americans has become a growing trend in restaurants, on TV programs, and even in urban food trucks. Despite this new expo- sure, very few Americans understand Korean food, and fewer still will make it at home – unless they happen to have a Korean grandmother nearby.

Food defi nes a country’s cultural identity. That morsel of beef from the grill and spicy chili paste are not only there because they’re tasty, they show the character of the people who chose them. Under- standing the Korean table can bring insight to its people, and vice versa as well.

Having grown up eating and cooking Korean food, I can share my personal stories along with the culinary history. A recipe is only partially the recita-

tion of ingredients and the instructions for their use, it is also the memories, stories, and people it evokes. And since we’re bringing all of them to the table, you may as well also learn how to behave and what to do when you’re invited to eat with Koreans.

I’ll provide a short lesson on etiquette so you can ap- proach your next eating experience with confi dence.

JINA LEE

was born in 1956 and grew up in Seoul, where she got her Bachelor’s degree at Seoul National Univer- sity SNU majoring in German language and literature.

She got a master’s degree in anthropology and is a doctoral candidate in the Department of Anthropology at SNU. She has been participating in the global eff orts for ecological sustainability since 1986 when she real- ized the impending possibility of a global environmental crisis. In her research, educational and advisory activities at civil, academic and governmental levels, she became more concerned with the fundamental limits of the cur- rent paradigm of modernity and has tried to identify an alternative. Her recent research concern, including this presentation, is what might be called “searching for a new paradigm for food discourses.” She is the author of Rethinking Environment and Living as an Ecologist, and co-author of Women and the Environment, Decentraliza- tion and Women, Teaching Materials for Social and Envi- ronmental Education, How to Deal with Multiple Chemical Sensitivity, and Juvenile Problem of Our Time. Her works of translation includes A Green History of the World, A New Green History of the World, and Women, Environment and Sustainable Development.

» Colonial Food Modernity at Its Formation:

An Analysis of Food Discourses of Korea in the 1920s and 1930s

Academic discourse on foodways during the Japanese colonial period in Korea has largely been dominated by the colonial modernity perspective:

the Japanese colonial administration enhanced food quantity as well as quality available for Koreans.

But a closer and more interdisciplinary look reveals a quite diff erent picture. Statistics show that food production did increase during the colonial period.

However, this cannot automatically be regarded as evidence of the effi ciency or success of Japanese colonial policy on food, including agriculture and fi sheries, since there are a number of important factors at play behind the increase in food produc- tion and its documentation: global climate change, diff erences in foodways between Korea and Japan, the strategic dualism of Japanese modernization, diversity in reactions to changing foodways among diff erent groups or classes, both in Korea and Japan,

[ 17 ] and so forth. A very dynamic process of foodways can be revealed by scanning various documents from the colonial period (including those which do not seem to be directly related to food policy; for instance, novels, newspaper, magazines and school textbooks showing everyday lives) and also from recent research outcomes that show changes to the global ecosystem at that time. The resulting picture conveys a very clear message of post-modernity.

SOO-KYUNG LEE

(PhD, RD) is a nutrition specialist.

Her research interests include nutrition and health impacts of societal changes, acculturation issues, and fetal origin theory. She graduated from Seoul National University of Korea with a BS and MS. She received a doctoral degree from Cornell University, majoring in community nutrition. She worked as a faculty member at Hunter College in New York City and Rutgers University in New Jersey before she arrived at her current faculty position at Inha University in Korea.

» Dynamic Korean Cuisine: Food and Nutrition Korean cuisine came to its current form after many stages of formulations throughout history. This presentation will examine how the recent changes in food consumption have aff ected nutrition and health profi les among Koreans. Globalization and industrialization have aff ected Korean cuisine in various ways, while the basic form of the Korean meal seems to remain intact. The basic form of the Korean meal is based on the Samchupbansan — the three side dishes meal from the Chosun dynasty

— which is still very much relevant. Some of the major food consumption changes include increased consumption of animal foods and processed foods.

This presentation will review some main facilitators of these food consumption changes. These changes have resulted in nutrient consumption profi les that can be summarized as increased fat and protein con- sumption. Nutrient consumption changes, in turn, appear to have aff ected the Korean health profi le, evidenced by morbidity and mortality changes. This presentation will conclude with a discussion of some of the eff orts to keep Korean cuisine as nutritious and healthy as possible.

VANINA LESCHZINER

is Assistant Professor of Sociol- ogy at the University of Toronto. Her primary areas of interest are theory, culture, cognition and organizations.

She is working on a book manuscript about elite chefs.

Her research has appeared in Theory & Society and Socio- logical Forum, among other publications.

CATHERINE L. MAH

(MD, FRCPC, PhD) is a Scientist at the Centre for Addiction and Mental Health, Head of the Food Policy Research Initiative at the Ontario Tobacco Research Unit and CIHR Fellow in Public Health Policy at the University of Toronto. Her research examines how public health policies can enable the development of sustainable cities and health-focused food systems.

Dr. Mah recently held a visiting fellowship at Kyoto University to study food education policy in Japan. She is currently engaged in a research partnership with Toronto Public Health and the Toronto Food Strategy, and is a member of the Toronto Food Policy Council.

OKPYO MOON

is Professor of Anthropology and Dean of the Graduate School at the Academy of Korean Stud- ies, where she has taught anthropology since 1986. She also served as Edwin O. Reischauer Visiting Professor at Harvard University and Visiting Professor at the National Museum of Ethnology, Osaka, Japan. She was educated at Seoul National University, Korea, and at the University of Oxford, UK, where she received a doctoral degree in social anthropology. She has carried out extensive fi eld research with a particular focus on the comparative aspects of Japan and Korea in the areas of family and gender, urban and rural community making, ethnic minorities, tourism, popular culture and heritage maintenance policies. Her recent publications include New Women: Images of Modern Women in Japan and Korea (2003), Yangban:

The Life World of Korean Scholar Gentry (2004), Ethnic Relations of Overseas Koreans (2006), Japanese Tourism and Travel Culture (2009), Consuming Korean Tradition in Early and Late Modernity: Commodifi cation, Tourism, and Performance (2010) and “Dining Elegance and Authentic- ity: Archaeology of Royal Court Cuisine

in Korea” (Korea Journal 50 – 1, Spring 2010).

» Constructing National Hauté Cuisine in Global- izing Korea

National cuisine restaurants are believed to have fi rst appeared in Korea in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when foreign cuisines — includ- ing Chinese, Japanese and Western — began to be introduced. In the 1980s, a new type of Korean table d’hôte restaurant began to appear; partly in response to the need for conspicuous consumption among the growing urban middle-class popula- tion, and also for entertaining foreign guests. The latter development in particular constituted part of the attempts to re-produce and re-invent new items of “national” cuisine, with amplifi ed cultural and scientifi c theories claiming the superiority and uniqueness of Korean cuisine. These discourses have ultimately led to the more recent eff orts

[ 18 ] toward the transnational expansion of Korean

food, such as the hansik segehwa campaign. In this presentation, it will be attempted to examine the process of constructing Korean hauté cuisine in the context of renewed awareness of tradition or authenticity of “national” food and foodways in increasingly globalizing Korea, and to analyze the meaning of innovations and compromises that this process has brought about in contemporary Korean dietary practices.

ITO PENG

is Associate Dean of Interdisciplinary and International Aff airs and Professor of Sociology and Public Policy at the Faculty of Arts and Science, University of Toronto. She teaches political sociology, comparative welfare states, and public policy, specializing in family, gender, and labour market policies. She has just complet- ed a large international research project with the United Nations Research Institute for Social Development

UNRISD on political and social economy of care. She is currently involved in 1) a SSHRC funded research project comparing social investment policies in Canada, Austra- lia, Japan and South Korea; 2) an international compara- tive research project with Kyoto University on changing public and intimate spheres in Asia; and 3) international comparative research on labour market dualization with Oxford University and Science Po. Professor Peng is an Associate Researcher for the UNRISD and a Research Fellow at the Ontario Ministry of Health and Long-Term Care. Dr. Peng received her PhD from London School of Economics.

MICHAEL J. PETTID

has recently been promoted to Professor of Korean Studies in the Department of Asian and Asian American Studies and also serves as Director of the Translation Research and Instruction Program at Binghamton University SUNY . He received his PhD in premodern Korean literature from the University of Hawaii at Manoa. He has published widely on premodern Korean literature, history, religions and culture, including monographs on the history of Korean cuisine (Korean Cuisine: An Illustrated History, 2008) and an annotated translation and analysis of a 17th century novel (Unyŏng- jŏn: A Love Aff air at the Royal Palace of Chosŏn Korea, 2009). He is also a co-editor of the forthcoming Confu- cianism and Women in Chosŏn Korea: New Perspectives (with Youngmin Kim, SUNY Press, 2011) and author of numerous articles and book chapters. His current research project is an investigation of women’s agrarian and economic lives in Chosŏn period Korea.

» More Important than Sex? Foodways and Korean Culture

Over the centuries there have been many signifi cant factors that have played a role in the development of Korean culture, including geographic, climatic and ideological considerations. Additionally, interac- tion with both neighbouring and distant cultures have also been important in augmenting the lives of the people on and around the Korean peninsula.

However, if one was to examine but a single area so as to better understand the amalgamation of various cultural practices, there is no aspect more telling than Korean foodways. More than economic wealth, political power, or even sex, it is food that has both historically and contemporarily shaped many Korean cultural practices.

This talk will examine how the production, prep- aration and ritual usage of food has helped fashion various Korean cultural practices and how such processes have transformed over the past several centuries. In doing so, we will see that the foodways of contemporary Korea are signifi cantly removed from the practices of past times, and this will help us better understand the various transformations of Korean culture from the premodern to modern period.

SENATOR VIVIENNE POY

, Chancellor Emerita of the University of Toronto, is a historian, entrepreneur, corpo- rate director, fashion designer, volunteer, and author. In 1998, she was the fi rst Canadian of Asian descent to be appointed to the Senate of Canada. Senator Poy ensured May’s recognition as Asian Heritage Month by the federal government, and works to further relations between Canada and the Asia-Pacifi c region.

BYULNA RYO

has been working as a Master of Ceremonies in the Korean-Canadian community since winning the title of Miss Korea of Canada in 2002. Her deep involvement with the Korean-Canadian community, combined with frequent fl ying and travels through her career in the airline industry, has given her the insight to embrace and learn from diff erent cultures. She has hosted numerous events such as the Korean Cultural Heritage day at the ROM, the Harvest Festival at Mel Lastman Square and the DANO Spring Festival.

[ 19 ]

VALERIE TARASUK

is Professor in the Department of Nutritional Sciences and Dalla Lana School of Public Health at the University of Toronto. Much of her research focuses on problems of household food insecurity in Canada, considering their origins and nutrition implica- tions and examining policy and program responses.

Paralleling this focus is an ongoing interest in Canadian food policy and population-level dietary assessment.

Recent research activities include an analysis of the population health implications of proposed changes to food fortifi cation regulations, an examination of nutrition disparities in Canada, and a study of nutrition- related food marketing in Toronto supermarkets.

» Nutrition, Food Marketing, and Population Health

An examination of food and nutrition issues in Canada provides an interesting counter-point to the current trends in Korea. Rising obesity rates, excessive sodium intakes, suboptimal nutrient intakes, and persistent nutrition disparities are concerns in the Canadian population. Healthy eating is complicated here by the sheer volume of options and opportunities for food consump- tion, but also by recent trends in food marketing.

Manufacturers are increasingly introducing new

“nutritionally-enhanced” products and promoting products as “healthy choices” based on the presence or absence of specifi c constituents. Such market- ing practices are intimately linked to several recent regulatory changes in Canada, but they refl ect some important global trends. The population health implications of current trends in food manufacturing and marketing are explored in this presentation.

JOSEPH WONG

is Canada Research Chair and Professor of Political Science at the University of Toronto, where he is also the Director of the Asian Institute. Author of three books, Professor Wong’s current research focuses on poverty and health in the global south. Professor Wong was educated at the University of Wisconsin-Madison and has been a visiting fellow at Oxford, Harvard, Academia Sinica and Seoul National University.

CHAI-WOO YI

is the co-founder and president of Bulgogi Brothers. He began his career in the restaurant business as a manager of the Lotte Hotel Restaurant in 1986, and launched two American franchises, TGI Friday’s and Outback Steakhouse, in Korea. Hoping to create a successful Korean franchise brand, Yi and his partner went on to create Bulgogi Brothers, a Korean BBQ restaurant that now operates 27 stores in South Korea.

» Branding Korean Food in the Global Market:

Globalization Strategies through Authenticity and Innovation

The Korean restaurant brand has not been able to successfully launch itself as a distinct and distin- guishable new cuisine. That is, until now. The popu- lar Korean BBQ franchise brand Bulgogi Brothers is planning to enter into foreign markets. Bridging the gap between authentic, traditional cuisine and innovation, Bulgogi Brothers will play a vital role in establishing Korean food as a distinctive cuisine on the global stage. The presentation will begin with an overview of the Korean Food Foundation K-FF and its strategies for the globalization of Korean food, followed by a description of the expansion of the Bulgogi Brothers brand and its strategies for localizing fl avours to appeal to a wider market of diverse North American tastes.

The Program of Global Asia Studies at the University of Toronto Scarborough is a recently established and fast growing inter-disciplinary undergraduate program that places Asia within a dynamic global and diasporic context. It is designed to enhance our understanding of historical and contemporary cultures and politics in a global context by engaging the students with an extensive and intensive study of Asia and Asian diasporas in the past and present. Global Asia Studies uses cutting- edge methods and theories from a wide range of disciplines to explore the Asian societies and their global connections and ramifi cations. Our courses, taught by a group of pioneering researchers and dedicated teachers, cover many areas like Asian history and politics, media and visual culture, art history, women studies, literature, and Asian languages.

For more information, please visit our Website at:

www.utsc.utoronto.ca/~humdiv/prg_ga.html

Minor Program in

SOUTH ASIAN STUDIES

at the University of Toronto

The Centre for South Asian Studies is now off ering an exciting new Minor Program in South Asian Studies. The program is intended to respond to the changing face of South Asia by giving students the knowledge and skills they require to better understand and explore opportunities in this dynamic region. For more information, please visit: www.utoronto.ca/csas

Experiential Learning

We believe that many of the most valuable learning experiences take place outside the classroom. That’s why students in the Dr. David Chu Program in Asia-Pacific Studies at the University of Toronto are given a wealth of opportunities to travel to Asia to discover this dynamic and rapidly changing region firsthand. Whether through a summer abroad course at Fudan University in Shanghai, the annual Taiwan Field School, or an internationalized course module during the capstone four th year seminar, our students are travelling to Asia in increasing numbers to study the cutting-edge political, economic and social issues on the ground.

Consistently, the students return full of excitement and more eager than ever to learn more. But don’t just take our word for it — see for yourself.

www.utoronto.ca/davidchu

[ 22 ]

MAIN SPONSOR

CO-SPONSORS

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO SPONSORS

CORPORATE SPONSORS

CATERING

PHOTOGRAPHY GRAPHIC DESIGN

Asian Institute at the Munk School, University of Toronto | 1 Devonshire Place, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M S K Tel: (416) 946 – 8996 Fax: (416) 946 – 8838 | Email: asian.institute@utoronto.ca | www.utoronto.ca/ai

Sponsors

/ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /

The Asian Institute at the Munk School of Global Aff airs, University of Toronto, would like to thank and acknowledge the following contributors. It is only with their generous help that we have been able to make this event an overwhelming success.