Effect of the Projectile and the Air-jet Weaving Machine Characteristics on the Physical Properties of Worsted Fabrics for Garment(II) - Physical Properties of Worsted Fabrics for Garment -
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(2) ZRUVWHG IDEULF PHFKDQLFDO SURSHUW\ DLUMHW ORRP WDLORUDELOLW\ IDEULF KDQG. 1.. * V. ê& ç>~ 7¦f ²ÁÖ · fÆæ "¾öB ç> ò¢ &j~ KES-FB ÊöB êGB ç> ßW ~¢ ªCÒ ~& . Ò ç>ëêf ~~ëêöB ~^ 6b B~ ®º çb~ · fÆæ ¦*~ çbbWÞN f çb¦*ö V bWj v çVöB BçB çbj Ï~ B jvÁªC *bB çbëêf ~~ëê& j º ~º çVö V çb bW æzö & V. V¢ B~¶ .. æ.ræ ç>>Wö \º ç>\`¶ö 8 ôf \(fßê , 1990; fßê , 1993; fßê , 1995)& ®Úzæò çV~ ßW NB ç>~ >Wæz ö \º **ËöB~ þ ~ ÚJæb B® >¯>æ á~º ; . æ çVßW BB ç >~ ' ßWöº ÚÊ 'Ëj ~º&ö & (;> * , 2000; ;>* , 2001) >¯B Òf& ® . öBº *ö ÚB *Cæ¢ çVf öÚBÞ ç Vö V Îç>~ >W~ N¢ çVßW" &N* ªCÁ Ò ~¶ . *(fßê , 2004)öBº *Cæ¢ ç Vf öÚBÞ çV~ BçW ªCj * Bç &ÿ~ jv, ãÒ*~ê ËKª
(3) , Bï" ãÒËK~ &ê Ò ãÁ *Ò ËK" Ò.~ &êj ªC~& . öBº . ËK" &NB çVßW ç>~ >Wö ÚÆ 'Ëj ~ º&¢ Ò~¶ . ¢* v çVöB BçB ç>j ÿ¢b "ïÁ & ;j Û" 8 . Ò ;öB~ ÿ&" ê. 2.. þ. Bç þö ÒÏB çbJê " çb Bçö ÒÏB ç V~ Böf Table 1 5 Table 2f ? . öÒ B;f WOOL TOP ROVING(*O) SPINNING(;O) AUTO-CONINGj ö Ò¢ Ö~& b, Bç;f ¦ª ;ãV WARPING & BEAMING(no oiling), DRAWING-IN(Ûã)~ ãÒ beamj &j~, Bç f Table 2" ? *Cæ¢" öÚBÞ çVB Table 1~ b Bç~& . 2.1.. Corresponding author; Seung-Jin Kim Tel. +82-53-810-3890, Fax. +82-53-812-5702 E-mail: [email protected]. 106.
(4) *R+æ¢ öÚ*Þ ç8ß9 ~~Ï Îç> >9ö ~º 'Ë(II). 107. Table 1. Specification of weaving conditions Fiber Composition. Yarn count. WP. wool 93% nylon 7%. 1/40 s770 sirofil. WF. wool 100%. 1/30 1020. Fabric structure. 5 harness satin. s. Density(per 10cm) grey fabric. finished. 378. 421. 268. 283. 2.2. ïÁ& ; &;f ;
(5) (mending) ê «B æ¢ ' Bç V« ê Ñ ® j(piece)~ S¦ª 3¢¢ .~ Bç OË ¢~~ê over locking ~ "ï 5 &; ê¯~& , ' V«ê beamê Bç OËj ¢~* over locking ~ V«ê "ï 5 &;j ê¯~& . &;~ BBf "º f Table 3" ? .. ç>~ ' ß9 /; B V«~ çVöB Bç ' æ~ Ñ j(~) îæï ¦ ªöB 1¢O æ Ò j ~, ' V«ê 3¢ Oj Ö~ ÿö &;j ê¯*B 1¢ O~ ÿ& & æ Ò j áîb, V«ê &; ·ë ¢¶¢ ² ê¯ jB®öB êê& &æ Ò 1¢ Oj ~&. . 8¢B òº V«ê æ 3B, ÿ& &æ 3B, êê& &æ 3B, C 9B~ Ò öB ' Ò ê Fig. 1" ? ², 7, ÖG 3B ¦*öB 20 cm × 20 cm V~ ò¢ j~, ¢ KES - FB ÊRj Ï~ ç>~ 2.3. 2. Table 2. The characteristics of loom used for the test Projectile. Air jet Picanol. Sulzer-pu. Omni. RPM 360 700 Reed width(mm) 2200 1830 Harness motion mechanical dobby electronic dobby Weft insertion projectile nozzle & sub nozzle Let-off motion electronic let-off electronic let-off Range of picking(mm) 9.1 - 230 5.8 - 183 Microprocessor let off motion pick find let off m/o Table 3. Finishing process and conditions Process. Gas Singeing Solvent Scouring Scouring. Conditions. 100 m/min, gas 9 bar, both side singed 25 m/min 50oC, Soaping for 20 min, rinsing for 30 min o 50 C, Soaping for 45 min, rinsing for 50 min Dry 110oC, Over feeding ratio 5% o Fabric Dyeing 100 C Dry 110oC, Over feeding ratio 5% Shearing 20 m/min, 2 times for surface, ones for back Continuous Decatizing 15 m/min 2 19 m/min, pressure : 30 kg/cm Kier Decatizing. Remark WP: 18D×5=90 WF:68 picks/inch Width: 70.3"66.0"59.0" Length: 97.5m 96.5y 91.0y. ' ßW~¢ G;~ ÒÏ ÿæö & 6' ï&~ ¢ êÖ~ ' ßWj ï&~& . 3.. Ö # 8. ç8ö 8 ç> >9 î µ³
(6) : Fig. 2º çV*, ãÒf *Ò* ï~ æz¢ V* ÿ&j ç>" êê&j ç>~ 7¦*öB j ç>ò~ KES-FB ï 8j ê © . SULZERf P-OMNI çV*~ ç&' N¢ V* SULZER Bçç> ïj 100b ®j H SULZERf POMNIöB Bç ç>j ÿ&" êê&®j ö ç> ï~ ç&' 8j ê ~& . Fig. 2(a)öB SULZER f P-OMNI Bçç> ïj jv Ëæ;(EM)8 " ãÒOË Ëö.æ(WT)8 SULZER P-OMNI B çç> 8j &æº ©j º º P-OMNIöB B ç* ç> »~ ;ê& ² º ©j ö" º *(fßê, 2004)Table 5f 6öB & Bç7 SULZER çV~ ãÒËK P-OMNI çV ç&'b ¢b ËK ·² Òº P-OMNI çV~ ãÒ& æ; '² ¢Ú ¾ »W ¸f 8j &æº ©b Òò* . ¾ ˲ê(RT)8f L çVöB Bç* ç> ÎL jÝ 8j &ê . Ò Fig. 2(c)~ ãÒOËb êê& ãÖ¢ (a)~ ÿ&öB SULZER& P-OMNI. ² ¸f ãÒOË~ EM, WT8j &æº > êê& öBº L çVöB Bç ç> ÎL jÝ 8j &ê . Fig. 2(b)öB L çV ÎL ÿ& *Ò~ EM, WT, RT 8 ãÒ~ ãÖfº Ò N& ~ ì Fig. 2(d)~ ê ê&~ ãÖ $ *Ò~ EM, WT, RT8 N& ² ¾ æ¾æ pæò SULZER& P-OMNI £* ¸f 8j &æ º ©j r > ® . f?f Ö"º çVßW ç> Ëæ; ßWö N¢ 3.1.. Fig. 1. Preparation of samples for the test using KES-FB System..
(7) 108. ~~Öë²æ *7² *1^, 2005j. Fig. 2. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between SULZER and P-OMNI looms. (a), (c) warp direction; (b),(d) weft direction; (a),(b) same time finished; (c),(d) different time finished.. FBÊæîº &;öB çê . > ® º Ò j ö & . î »³
(8) : Fig. 2(a), (b)öB ÿ& SULZERf P-OMNI Bçç>~ ãÒOË £¾ ;W(B)f £ ¾ ®ÊHÒÊ(2HB)º N& ì *ÒOË~ ãÖ, B8f jÝ~æò 2HB8f P-OMNI& £* 8j &ê . Ò êê& Fig. 2(c), (d)~ ãÖ ãÁ*ÒOË Îv SULZER& P-OMNI . ² ¸f Bf 2HB8j &ê . Fig. 2(a)f (c)¢ jv ãÒOËb ÿ& ã Öº v Bçç> Îv Bf 2HB8 N& ìæò êê& ®j º P-OMNI& SULZER Ôf 8j &ê . Fig. 2(b), (d)~ *ÒOË ãÖº 2HB8 ÿ& ®j POMNI& SULZER ¸~æò êê& ãÖº >&~ *ç~ Ö"¢ . Ò f ç>~ £¾ßWf çV ö 8 æz º &;öB £¾ >W~ æz& z ² ¾æÆ > ® º Ò j & º ©j ö & . î Ì,³
(9) : Fig. 2öB *;W(G)~ ãÖ ÿ &" êê& *~ N& ² Fig. 2(a)f (c)¢ jv ãÒ~ ÿ&f v çV*~ *;W(G)" * ®ÊHÒÊ(2HG, 5HG)8~ N& ìæò êê&f P-. & SULZER Ôf 8j &ê . $ Fig. 2(b)f (d)¢ *Ò~ ÿ&f P-OMNI& SULZER G, 2HG, 5HG8 *Ú'b ¸æò êê& ãÖº J®J >&~ Ö"¢ ® . Ö"º ç>~ *ßWê £¾ßW" îR&æ çV~ ßW &; ßW z 'Ëj º ©j & . î äʳ : Fig. 2(c), (d)~ êê& ç>~ { »ßWf v çV* ÞN& ~ ìæò Fig. 2(a), (b)~ ÿ & ®j {»ö.æ(WC)~ ãÖ, P-OMNI& SULZER. ² ·f 8j &æ {»²ê(RC)º N& æ p º . Rj¢~Þç>~ ãÖ(fßê , 2004) Bç7~ ã Òf *Ò~ ËKNº ~ ^ OË~ ßWj ¾æÚº ç >~ Ë, £¾, Ò *ßWf N¢ FB~æò ~ GOË ßW {»ßWöº æz¢ ¢V~æ pº Ö" ¢ &æò ²Îç> ãÖº >& çVö 8 {»ßW ö æz¢ &^J &;öBê {»>W~ æz& ô ¢VNj & . OMNI. ç>¦*ö 8 ç> >9 %î µ³ : Fig. 3f ç>~ ²ÁÖ, Ò 7¦. 3.2..
(10) *R+æ¢ öÚ*Þ ç8ß9 ~~Ï Îç> >9ö ~º 'Ë(II). 109. Fig. 3. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between SULZER and P-OMNI according to the fabric positions. (a) warp direction (POMNI), (b) weft direction (P-OMNI), (c) warp direction (SULZER), (d) weft direction (SULZER).. *öB j ç>~ ßW~¢ P-OMNIf SULZER çV ê ê © . v çV*ö ç> ¦*ö 8¢ >Wö ÚÊ N& ® ºæ¢ Ò~¶ . Fig. 3f 7¦*öB j ç> ò~ ïj V&(100%)b ~ ç>~ fÆæ ¦ª ²ÁÖGöB j ç>~ ïj ç&~ ê © . Fig. 3(a)º P-OMNI çVöB Bç ²ÁÖÁ7¦* ç >~ ãÒOË ïj ê © (b)º *ÒOËj ¾æ Þ © . Fig. 3(c)º SULZER çVöB Bç ²ÁÖÁ7 ¦* ç>~ ãÒOË ïj ê~&b (d)º *ÒO Ë ïj ¾æÞ © . Fig. 3(a)f (b)öB " > ® P-OMNI çVöB BçB ç>~ ãÖº ãÁ*Ò Ëæ; (EM), ö.æ(WT)& ²ÁÖÁ7¦ ~ ç>*~ö V¢ N& ì Fig. 3(c)f (d)öB SULZERöB Bç B ç>~ ãÖ ²ÁÖÁ7¦ ~ ç>*~ö V¢ ãÒ Ëö.æf æ;8~ N& ìæò *Ò Ëö.æ(WT)º 7¦* ·æ¦ ç>~ Ëö.æ(WT)& ² 'f 8 j ªbB Bç7 7¦ ·æ¦öB z BçËK ·Ï~æB »W ·æ¦& ÎÚæº ©b ê . %î »³
(11) : Fig. 3(a)f (b)öB P-OMNI çV. ~ ãÁ*ÒOË~ ²ÁÖÁ7¦~ ç>¦*ö 8 £¾ ;W(B)8~ N& ~ ì £¾®ÊHÒÊ(2HB)8f 7 ¦ ²ÁÖæ¦~ 8 £* ¸² ¾æ . Ö" º öÚBÞ çV~ *«Vö V~º ©b ê . ¯ ·æ¦~ *Ò& 7 ¶ÎææB £¾ö 8 ãÒf *Ò*~ îVj ¢V* ö.æ ¶ j &^JæB £¾® ÊHÒÊ~ 8 7¦* 8j ÒòB . Ò Fig. 3(c)f (d)¢ SULZER çV~ ãÖ, ãÒ~ £¾;W(B)8f jÝ~ Öæ¦ çb~ 2HB8f 7¦f ²æ¦ º £* Ôf 8j &ê . *ÒOË~ ãÖê B, 2HB8 çb¦*ö 8¢ £*~ N& ®æò ;ê ² æº pº . î Ì,³
(12) : Fig. 3(a)f (b)öB " > ® POMNI çV~ ãÒf *ÒOË~ çb¦*ö 8 *;W (G)f N¢ æ pæò *®ÊHÒÊ(2HG, 5HG) 8f ß® *ÒOËö N¢ . >ö Fig. 3(c)f (d)öB SULZER çV~ ãÁ*ÒOË~ *®ÊHÒʺ P-OMNI çV~ 7¦¾ ²æ¦ N º ç&'b Ôf 8j . Ö"º P-OMNI çV~ *«Vö 8 ²ÁÖæ¦f 7¦~ ËKNö V~º ©b ê ..
(13) 110. ~~Öë²æ *7² *1^, 2005j. î äʳ : çb~ {»ßWf P-OMNI çV~ çb ¦*ö 8 ÞN& 7¦* º ·æ¦& {»W ±² ¾æ . SULZER çV~ ãÖê îR&æ {»ö.æ(WC) º 7¦ º ·æ¦& ¸f 8j &æº > {»²ê (WC)º v çV Îv çb ¦*ö 8 ÞN¢ ®æ p . *çf P-OMNI~ ãÖ öÚBÞ *«Vö 8 ·æ¦~ ËKNf SULZER çV~ 7¦* ·æ ¦~ Ôf ËK ·æ¦~ {»ö.æ& 7¦* 8j ² ~º öb ÒòB . Ò *Ú'b " H çbï~ çb¦*ö 8 ÞN& P-OMNI SULZER çV& 'rj { > ®b *çf çb~ (hand)ßW¾ ~~~ /BW SULZERöB Bç çb z î ßWj ¢ ©¢º ©j ./ > ® . 4.. Ö V. 1. Air-jet çV P-OMNI çVöB BçB çb~ ãÒO Ë Ëö.æf Ëæ; Projectile çV SULZER ç V ç&'b 8j Bç 7 ãÒËK POMNI çV& SULZER çV ·rbB P-OMNI Bçç b~ »W z ±f ©b ï&>î . ÿ&" êê& * Ò çb¦*ö 8 Ëö.æf Ëæ;~ 8f N¢ æ pº . 2. ÿ&" êê&* çb~ ãÁ*ÒOË £¾;W" £¾®ÊHÒʺ P-OMNIf SULZER çV* æz& ì æò êê&öB P-OMNI Bççb SULZER Bççb. *ÒOË £¾;W" £¾®ÊHÒÊ& £* Ôf 8j &ê . Ò P-OMNI çVf SULZER çV~ ãÁ*ÒO Ë~ çb¦*ö 8 £¾ßWöBº *& N& ì £ *~ ÞNò ®j ö . 3. ÿ& çb~ ãÒOË *;W" *®ÊHÒ Êº £¾ßW~ Î"f ÿ¢~² P-OMNI Bççb SULZER £* 8j æB z çbbW j . ¾ êê& çb~ ãÖº J®J SULZER Bççb P-OMNI 8j z Wîj ¾æÞ .. 4. çb ¦*ö 8 *ßW~ ãÖ, P-OMNI çVöB ã ÒOË~ *;W" *®ÊHÒʺ Öæ¦ çb 7 ¦¾ ²æ¦. ² ¸f 8j &æ SULZER çV~ * ßWf ãÁ*Ò çb ¦*ö 8¢ N¢ î pº . 5. P-OMNIöB Bç çb SULZER çV. ² Ô f {»²ê(WC) ¢ . çb ¦*ö 8 {»ßWf P-OMNI çVf SULZER çV Îv 7¦ º ·æ¦~ {»W ¸f 8j &ææ {»W ±² ¾æ . $Ò~ : Ö"º RRC "B("B«: ~~Ï 5 Ö¶²Ò &VF 5 RFB® BB)Ö"~ ¢¦B &êV&ö 6Òãî .. ^^ò BßêÁB{ÒÁBCÁ;;~ÁnÆÖÁÒ (1990) ~ ¶f ; ç>~ >Wö ~º 'Ë. 4. ²æ, 27(9), 696-708 BßêÁJãÁ&îÁËÿ^ (1993) ç>~ f ' ß W. 4.²æ, 30(2), 89-112. BßêÁJãÁ&*ÁËÿ^ÁÇÒ> (1995) ÒöÊH ç >~ ;>» ßW" ç>¶f~ ç&W . 4. ²æ, 32(5), 480-487. BßêÁJãÁ&*ÁËÿ^ÁÇÒ> (1995) ÒöÊH ç >~ ãÒ&ê æzf ç>ßW"~ ç&W . 4. ²æ, 32(5), 488-493 BßêÁ&*ÁËÿ^Á">Á\&ÁBC (1995) RF ;ßW" ç>¶& B* R~ >Wö ~º 'Ë. 4.²æ, 32(8), 760-765. BßêÁ¶&'Á;æò (2004) ç8 ßW PETç> >Wö ~ º 'Ë(I). ï²æ, 16(4), 26-35. BßêÁ¶&'Á;æò (2004) ç8 ßW PETç> >Wö ~ º 'Ë(II). ï²æ, 16(4), 36-44. ;>*ÁBßêÁsWÆ (2000) Air Jetf Rapier ç8 ßW Îç >~ ' ßWö ~º 'Ë(I). ï²æ, 12(6), 1-7. ;>*ÁBßêÁsWÆ (2001) Air Jetf Rapier ç8 ßW Îç >~ ' ßWö ~º 'Ë(II). ï²æ, 13(1), 61-67. (2004j 7ú 21¢ 7>).
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