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Preliminary Study on the Development of a Platform for the Optimization of Beach Stabilization Measures Against Beach Erosion III - Centering on the Effects of Random Waves Occurring During the Unit Observation Period, and Infra-Gravity Waves of Bound Mod

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Academic year: 2021

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Fig. 1. Schematic sketch of sediment transport by the infra-gravity waves bound to the group of short waves.
Fig. 3. Schematic  sketch  of  the  driving  mechanism  of  boundary layer streaming and coordinate system.
Fig. 4. Schematic sketch of morphology change of the sea bed of slope  due to the erosion, and deposition process of  sus-pended load, and the net flux of bed load.
Fig. 10. Comparison of near bottom velocity at varying stages of the shoaling process of Cnoidal waves.
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