Constructive Characteristics of Outdoor Jacket Depending on the Performance Level

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ISSN 1229-3350(Print) ISSN 2288-1867(Online)

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J. fash. bus. Vol. 22,

No. 6:105-114, December. 2018 https://doi.org/

10.12940/jfb.2018.22.6.105

Depending on the Performance Level

Jinhee Choi

· Moonsoo Kyung

Dept. of Fashion Business, Jeonju University, Korea

Corresponding author

— Jinhee Choi

Tel : +82-63-220-2898 Fax : +82-63-220-2736 E-mail: [email protected]

Keywords Abstract

outdoor, jacket,

performance, construction

The purpose of this study is to investigate the diverse constructive

characteristics which significantly affects performance besides materials

information provided to consumers on functional clothes. Outdoor jackets can

classified them according to their performance level. In order to provide

consumers with necessary information to choose functional outdoor jackets, 12

brands selling domestic outdoor jackets were investigated and the conclusion of

this study was as follows; It was found that fit degree, backpack weight,

arm-raise, and number of pockets vary differently depending on performance

level of outdoor jacket. Considerable constructive difference was found between

high performance jacket mainly worn by professional climbers in extreme

environment and jacket that can be worn in daily life. It is found that different

characteristic is related not only to each diverse & complex constructive aspect,

but also to ability to stretch, resistance to water, venting system of materials

depending on performance level of outdoor jacket.

I. Introduction

Due to change in consumers' life style caused by heightened income level, namely, extended leisure time, pursuit of healthy life and increased outdoor activity, the domestic outdoor clothes market has rapidly grown(Kim, Oh, & Jung, 2015). Since the number of fashion brands has sharply increased for last 10 years on account of strategy of large domestic fashion companies, that is, launching new outdoor clothes brand or introducing overseas brand, etc., market was already saturated. The vehement competition of volume by companies triggered vicious cycle of enormous stock & all-time discount, finally resulting in minus growth in 2015 for the first time(“A cold wave in the outdoor industry”, 2016).

To overcome such crisis of outdoor clothes market and to survive in the competition, clothes brands are striving to grasp actual thought & opinion of consumers by utilizing diverse marketing techniques(Jung & Oh, 2016).

Outdoor clothes brands are expanding consumer layers by reinforcing functionality to improve products or to develop sensory design reflecting trend so as to reinforce competitiveness(Rhee & Lee, 2011). Product of high functionality and functional casual wear or city wear(Kwon, Jung, & Lee, 2015) product with distinct design & silhouette are being sold by developing new materials in outdoor clothes market. Due to development and use of such new materials, companies are producing product of high functionality in premium grade of high price in the area of casual outdoor product which is worn more in daily life besides product for professional mountain climbing as a way for marketing to increase sales.

Checking jacket, the representative item of functionality outdoor, we find that simple function is applied to or complex function is included in jacket which should be worn in accordance with use(Moon, 2014; Paek & Lee, 2014). Although survey shows that most consumers acquire information on the performance of functional clothes through Internet retrieval(Bang & Yoo, 2015), consumers need information on performance of product

to actually buy product. They get such information with hang-tag or from seller(Bang & Yoo, 2016). Hang-tag of general clothes product includes contents such as style, size, price, color, precaution for laundry, etc. Functional clothes mainly indicate the property of textile in use.(Lee, Bang, & Yoo 2014).

However, the performance of clothes product unilaterally provided to consumer by company through hang-tag is limited to information on the property of materials. There is no method by which the constructive characteristic and information on clothes product that is used or utilized to improve the other performance can be easily recognized.

While the matters and indication method that should be specified to deliver consumers exact & clear information are implemented in other areas such as functional food and functional cosmetics, because the regulation of providing information on performance of functional product is legally arranged, such institutional system is not arranged for functional clothes product.(Bang & Yoo, 2016).

The preceding study(Lee et al., 2014) on consumer's reaction to information on performance of functional clothes shows that the level of understanding and satisfaction in information on performance of functional clothes varies depending on consumers' interest &

recognition of functional product. According to the same, it seems that the method & contents of indicating information on performance can be specialized and differentiated for each brand. The result of preceding study on consumers' understanding and preference of hang-tag type of outdoor jacket type (Bang & Yoo, 2016) also shows that unprofessional youth that emphasize brand and design, like expert group, prefer being provided with method to provide new information on functional clothes and diverse contents. Namely, as young consumers are emerging as main customers in future outdoor functional product market(Lee, 2014), it is analyzed that study on information on outdoor clothes product & indication method is necessary to induce them as new consumers.

However, since most of means to provide information

on such functional clothes are composed explanation on functionality of materials, Q/A, subsidiary materials(Lee et al., 2014), brands hardly provide explanation on constructive characteristic such as degree of fitted that largely affects functionality & wearing performance, activity range depending on sleeve construction, position

& number of pocket, part to which reinforcement is attached, venting, storage part, etc. Consumers to whom only the materials presented on such hang-tag and information on basic design characteristic are provided by seller cannot fully understand outdoor product, most of which is high priced. Thus, vicious cycle where companies suffer poor sales continues inevitably.

To promote the sales of functional clothes product, technical marketing which realizes effective communication with consumer is necessary(Bang & Yoo, 2016), It is absolutely required to present alternative in which companies create profit through differentiated marketing and consumers enjoy rational & satisfactory consumption as they are provided with right information.

Thus, this study intends to investigate the diverse constructive characteristics which significantly affect performance besides materials information that is provided to consumer when outdoor jacket as functional clothes is sold, to classify such characteristics depending on performance level and to provide consumers with them as materials necessary to choose functional outdoor jacket. The information provided so will help companies increasing the sales of domestic outdoor brand which is in difficulty at present as they utilize it to develop new product & to apply it to marketing technique.

. Methods

Ⅱ 1. Study issue

To investigate & analyze outdoor clothes brands sold in domestic market in order to provide consumers with diverse functionality information on outdoor product, the following study issues were established.

Study issue 1. To investigate constructive characteristic

that affects functionality including materials of domestic outdoor brand product.

Study issue 2. To analyze the investigated constructive characteristic depending on performance level.

2. Target of investigation

To grasp the constructive characteristic of outdoor jacket, 12 brands were chosen for investigation and presented in Table 1 by referring to the result selected(“2017 The best MMBs?”, 2017) in 2017 fashion business out of domestic outdoor clothes brands. Out of diverse outdoor clothes, the item for investigation is indispensable for mountain climbing and also wearable for outing and travel. As the most notable clothes when they are worn, the target is limited to jacket of the highest price.

3. Method and contents of investigate

To investigate constructive characteristic depending on performance of outdoor clothes, investigation was done with direct question asked to development designer &

shop managers of brands presented in Table 1. The term of investigate through question was 3 months from August to October 2017.

The specific contents of investigate are largely divided.

First, 4 questions on general matters of brand (domestic& overseas brand, establishment year, sales volume, price range) and 3 questions on demographic &

statistical matters of investigation target (gender, career,

whether worked in the other outdoor brand). Second, 10

questions on constructive characteristic depending on

performance (fitted, load capacity of back pack, angle of

sleeve construction, form of sleeve bottom, method of

adjustment, hood form, number & position of pockets,

form of hem). Third, 3 questions on materials(kinds of

materials, stretchability, part where venting materials are

attached). The questions were prepared by referring to

the preceding study(Oh & Kim, 2012; Bang & Yoo,

2016).

Table 1. Surveyed Outdoor Wear Brands

Brand(Company) Domestic/Imported(Country)

1 Black yak(Black yak) Domestic

2 Colombia(Colombia sportswear) Imported(USA)

3 Discovery(F&F) Domestic

4 Eider(K2 Korea) Imported license(France)

5 NEPA(NEPA) Domestic

6 National Geographic(Nature Holdings) Domestic

7 Mille(Mille Edelweiss Holdings) Imported license(France)

8 K2(K2 Korea) Domestic

9 Kolping(Kilping) Domestic

10 Kolon Sport(Kolon Industry) Domestic

11 La Puma(LF) Imported license(France)

12 Redface(The Redface) Domestic

Table 2. Descriptive Statistic of Respondents Unit (person, (%))

Gender Male Female

12(57.1%) 9(42.9%)

Age 20’s 30’s 40’s -

4(19.0%) 10(47.6%) 7(33.4%) -

Work periods

under 5 years 5 10 years ～ 10 15 years ～ over 15 years

4(19.0%) 6(28.6%) 6(28.6%) 5(22.8%)

. Result of study and analysis

Ⅲ

1. General and demographic & statistical matters of brand

As seen in Table 1, the brands for investigation are 12 ones composed of 7 domestic brands(NEPA, National Geographic, Discovery, Black Yak, Red Face, KOLON Sports, KOLPING), 1 overseas brand(Columbia), 3 overseas license brands(La Puma, Miillet, Eider). Thus, domestic brands outnumber overseas brands.

According to Table 2, the gender of targets of investigation is 12 men(57.1%) and 9 women(42.9%).

The age is 4 people in their 20s'(19.1%), 10 people in their 30'(47.6%) and 7 people in their 40s'(33.4%), where 30s' shows the highest portion. Term of service is 6

people for 5~10 years(28.6%), 6 people for 10~15 years(28.6%), 5 people over 15 years(23.7%) and 4 people below 5 years (19.1%).

2. Constructive characteristic depending on performance of outdoor jacket

Table 3 was presented by the result of investigation on production based on performance of outdoor jacket.

Seven brands including Black Yak, Columbia produce low performance jacket in low price that can be usually worn by people, medium performance & high performance that is mainly worn for mountain climbing

& extreme environment. NEPA, K2, KOLPING produce only medium performance and high performance jacket.

National Geographic and Millet do not produce high

Table 3. Investigation on Production Based on Performance of Jacket Performance

Brand

Level of

Low Medium High

1 Black yak ◎ ◎ ◎

2 Colombia ◎ ◎ ◎

3 Discovery ◎ ◎ ◉

4 Eider ◎ ◎ ◉

5 NEPA - ◎ ◎

6 National Geographic ◎ ◉ -

7 Mille ◎ ◎ -

8 K2 - ◎ ◎

9 Kolping - ◎ ◎

10 Kolon Sport ◎ ◎ ◉

11 La Puma ◎ ◉ ◎

12 Redface ◎ ◎ ◉

: Main Products

◉

Table 4. Outdoor Jacket’s Base & Gear System Depending on Performance Level Constructive

Characters Perfor-

mance Level

Fit Backpack Arm-raise Pockets

High

Short&tight

Long Back 40 50L ～ Low T-Shape 4 High Pockets

Medium

Tight or Regular 30 40L ～ Low T-Shape 4(2Low, 2High)

performance jacket. On the contrary, K2 & KOLPING do not produce low performance jacket, which implies that the main product each brand produces varies

depending on performance of jacket.

According to Table 4. the fit degree depending on

performance level of jacket, backpack weight, arm-raise,

Table 4. Continued Constructive

Characters Perfor-

mance Level

Fit Backpack Arm-raise Pockets

Low

Regular 20 30L ～ A-Shape 2 Low Pockets

number of pockets are applied differently. The high performance jacket mainly worn by professional climbers in extreme environment is short and tight to keep warmth and designed in short & tight + long back.

Backpack is designed for volume of 40~50L proper to take many goods including beds necessary for mountain climbing activity. For easy movement, arm-raise is in low T-form and more than 4 pockets are attached over waistline to take diverse objects.

Although medium performance jacket is used for tight or regular fit and backpack is used for mountain climbing, they are designed for 30 40L to take relatively ～ fewer objects than high performance jacket. Arm-raise is in low T-form similar to high performance jacket for each arm movement. There are 4 pockets, 2 of which are attached over waistline and 2 of which are below it.

Low performance jacket is regular fit,& urban backpack with volume of 20 30L. Unlike that of high ～ performance& medium performance jacket, arm-raise is found to be designed in A-form to heighten external satisfaction rather than activity of arm movement. In consideration of activity in daily life, 2 pockets are attached below waist so that hands may be easily put into.

As presented in Table 5, the storage position of outdoor jacket slightly varies depending on performance level. There are 4 storage positions of high performance

jacket above waistline and one pocket is attached on arm-raise or both pockets are on both sides. Compared to high performance jacket, the storage position of medium performance jacket is slightly below waistline and the number of storages is mostly 3. There is 1 or no storage on the sleeve. The position of edge storage of low performance jacket is below waistline. The number is analyzed to be from 2 to 4.

3. Characteristic of outdoor jacket materials depending on performance level

The stretchability of materials depending on performance level of outdoor jacket is presented in Table 6. High performance jacket uses wholly 4-way stretch materials in 100% or uses 4-way stretch materials partially between 2-way stretch materials and armpit & hood part. Medium performance jacket uses wholly 2-way stretch materials in 100% or partially uses 2-way stretch materials on armpit part. Stretch is hardly applied to low performance jacket or very low materials are used.

As presented in Table 6, the venting characteristic of

outdoor jacket materials is as follows. High performance

jacket uses materials of high venting on whole jacket or

materials of 75% venting, additionally using venting on

part of armpit. Medium performance jacket uses

materials of venting which is in the level of 50% of high

performance jacket materials. Materials of 50% venting

Table 5. Outdoor Jacket’s Storage System Depending on Performance Level Constructive

Characters Perfor-

mance Level

Storage Position

A B C D

High

6 5 4 4

Medium

5 4 4 3

Low

4 3 2

are also used for armpit. Or materials of 75% venting are used on whole jacket without applying other materials or venting on armpit. Low performance jacket used materials of 25~50% venting.

As presented in Table 7, characteristic of the part where reinforcement is attached depending on wear of outdoor jacket materials is as follows. High performance jacket used materials of high wear-resistance on whole jacket materials. Especially, reinforcement is additionally attached on sideline or inner sleeve which may be severely worn due to heavy backpack or waist belt.

Medium performance jacket uses materials in the level of 75% of high performance jacket. Like high performance jacket, reinforcement is additionally attached on sideline or inner sleeve which is severely worn due to backpack.

Compared to high performance jacket, low performance

jacket used materials of wear-resistance in the level of

50%. Reinforcement is not separately attached on the

sleeve, but on the shoulder and sideline, which is because

relatively light backpack is in use or worn in daily life

for outdoor jacket.

Table 6. Outdoor Jacket’s Stretchability & Venting System Depending on Performance Level Constructive

Characters Perfor-

mance Level

Stretchability Venting

A B A B

High

Medium

Low

Table 7. Outdoor Jacket’s Abrasion Reinforcement Depending on Performance Level Constructive

Characters Perfor-

mance Level

Abrasion Reinforcement Position

A B C D

High

100% 100%+7 100%+6

Table 7. Continued Constructive

Characters Perfor-

mance Level

Abrasion Reinforcement Position

A B C D

Medium

75%+7 75%+6 75%+4 75%+2

Low

50%+4 50%+2 50%+2 25%

. Conclusion

Ⅳ

The purpose of this study was to investigate the diverse constructive characteristics which significantly affects performance besides materials information which has been provided to consumer when functional clothes.

outdoor jacket is sold, to classify them in accordance with performance level & to provide consumers with materials necessary to choose functional outdoor jacket 12 brands selling domestic outdoor jackets were investigated and the conclusion of this study was as follows. It is found that fit degree, backpack weight, arm-raise, number of pockets vary differently depending on performance level of outdoor jacket. Considerable constructive difference was found between high performance jacket mainly worn by professional climbers in extreme environment and jacket that can be worn in daily life.

Since such matters have not been properly provided to consumers so far, however, consumers who rarely wear jacket in extreme situation also buy high performance jacket in high price. Thus, it is required to provide information to buy jacket proper to consumers' use in the future. Further, it is found that different characteristic is related not only to each diverse &

complex constructive aspect, but also to stretchability, wear-resistance, venting system of materials depending on performance level of outdoor jacket.

Finally, subsequent study such as development of

more detailed clothes design and materials information

pictogram, etc needs to be made on the basis of

materials presented in this study so that consumers may

buy quite satisfactory outdoor jacket with rational price

they prefer and suitability to the situation where such

jacket is worn.

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Received (November 8, 2018)

Revised (December 17, 2018)

Accepted (December 19, 2018)